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"Regular user"
yngrshr - 12.31.12, 1:17 pm Post #1: | Reply With Quote
So, i just bought two 2C 6500 mAH packs from SPC for my Slash and my father's Slash.

I fully charged and balanced the packs using the EZ-Peak charger from Traxxas (charged them on 6A since that's the highest it goes and they must have been sent at half full or so since they charged up in about 40 minutes).

Well, I connected them to the truck like I do with any other battery. I then changed the ESC over into LVM and went through the programming thing. ESC, instead of staying green, would blink green once, then red twice and power off. If I turned it on again, it'd do the same thing. Green then red then red.

I did some searching online about this and didn't find all that much on the problem (I wanted to at least search a bit instead of asking a stupid question that's been asked time and time again). The NiMH batteries run fine on the normal mode.

While I originally thought that it was a battery problem, both new batteries result in the same thing. Could this possibly be an ESC problem? The trucks are brand new (Christmas morning).

I am a total n00b to RC cars, but this still seems a bit weird to me.
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"Regular user"
teamassociateg - 1.01.13, 6:41 pm Post #2: | Reply With Quote
are you still running stock traxxas esc or have you changed esc? is so what brand
Gimpdiggity's Avatar
"Valiant Poultry"
Gimpdiggity - 1.01.13, 6:50 pm Post #3: | Reply With Quote
How exactly did you change the ESC into LVM mode??

My friend has a VXL Slash, and he has some trouble sometimes getting it into LVM when running LiPos. It's like it doesn't want to "take" that input for some reason.
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"Experienced user"
Chevis - 1.01.13, 7:23 pm Post #4: | Reply With Quote
I had the same trouble with one of mine. Got two VXL slashes for Christmas. I only had to go through the instructions a couple of times before it took and I got the green light. A little frustrating, but it eventually took. Remember that some of the settings are changed with the esc already on, and some are changed starting with it powered off. That may be the difference.
"Regular user"
Prospect84 - 1.02.13, 8:54 am Post #5: | Reply With Quote
With the stock ESC I believe (could be wrong I'm pretty noobish myself) that you have to turn the ESC on, THEN hold it till it goes off, and keep holding till it comes back on green. Also, be sure to have your remote turned on before turning the ESC on the first time to avoid funny flashy lights throwing you off. So it's -> remote on -> ESC on (should be solid red light) -> Hold button till ESC turns off -> KEEP holding till it comes back in (should light up green this time) -> Now you are ready to run.

After turning LVC on, when your voltage gets low enough, it will drop you to a limited 50% power which will last a very short time before it cuts off your power completely. At this point the light on the ESC will be blinking and from what I've experienced it doesn't want to "turn off" by pushing the button, I've had to disconnect the battery at this point to actually turn it off. I hope this helps. I've been running a 5000mah 25c Onyx Lipo in mine and the power increase is very obvious over the stock NiMH battery that comes with the Slash.
"Experienced user"
bigdodge44150 - 1.02.13, 10:10 am Post #6: | Reply With Quote
You should also hear a sound coming from the motor can't remember if it is rising or falling but you have to turn it on then hold the button. They say 10 seconds but it seems like forever.
"Regular user"
Prospect84 - 1.02.13, 10:39 am Post #7: | Reply With Quote
^^ True story on the 10 seconds part... I haven't timed it but it does feel more like 15-20 seconds sometimes.
"Regular user"
yngrshr - 1.05.13, 4:55 pm Post #8: | Reply With Quote
Got the sound and everything when I switched it to the low voltage setting. That wasn't the issue (and yeah, it does feel longer than 10 seconds).

So some more on this problem. The car will accept a LiPo that has been partially discharged. I had left a fully charged LiPo over a day and a half or so in the charging sack and I guess the LiPo lost a tiny bit of charge. Car accepted it no problem and ran awesomely.

Charged the LiPo up and balanced it after it ran down and wanted to run the car again after a few hours cool down period. Car did not accept the battery at all. ESC would turn on, LED would turn green, and then blink red and shut off.

This is insanely perplexing and I am guessing the ESC is shot. My father's Slash accepts the LiPos just fine when fully charged and balanced. Going to contact Traxxas during the week and ask them what they think. ESC makes a faint electronic noise when it is on, but I'm guessing this is normal?

The one thing I find funny about these cars is that I find working on an actual car to be easier. I'm sure some agree! The little, tiny allen keys are a real pain in the *** to get a hold of.
"Experienced user"
bigdodge44150 - 1.06.13, 8:08 am Post #9: | Reply With Quote
Sounds like its time to buy some new tools. The sound is weird.
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"Northern New Jersey"
Bunzo - 1.06.13, 8:23 am Post #10: | Reply With Quote
yngrshr said
Got the sound and everything when I switched it to the low voltage setting. That wasn't the issue (and yeah, it does feel longer than 10 seconds).

So some more on this problem. The car will accept a LiPo that has been partially discharged. I had left a fully charged LiPo over a day and a half or so in the charging sack and I guess the LiPo lost a tiny bit of charge. Car accepted it no problem and ran awesomely.

Charged the LiPo up and balanced it after it ran down and wanted to run the car again after a few hours cool down period. Car did not accept the battery at all. ESC would turn on, LED would turn green, and then blink red and shut off.

This is insanely perplexing and I am guessing the ESC is shot. My father's Slash accepts the LiPos just fine when fully charged and balanced. Going to contact Traxxas during the week and ask them what they think. ESC makes a faint electronic noise when it is on, but I'm guessing this is normal?

The one thing I find funny about these cars is that I find working on an actual car to be easier. I'm sure some agree! The little, tiny allen keys are a real pain in the *** to get a hold of.
Yup the little tiny allen keys are a pain to use. Thats why you should invest some money in some hex drivers instead of using allen keys. I just bought a set of drivers off ebay, they are no name brand and cheap but they have been working out great so far , no signs of wear after 2 months.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-1-5-2-0...item43b2bf2e45

Sure you could spend tons more money on hex drivers, some people spend upwards of 20 bucks just for one driver but these are such a low price that even if they only last a few months I am fine with that.
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