Yep....ran the entire 4500mAh pack and the esc stayed cool, while the motor was only warm.

With the stock electronics and 9.6v 2000mAh pack, the motor was too hot to touch after the batt ran out...and of course you know what happened to the motherboard.

So your right, it's very efficient now.

Amazing work! That's progress! How come the motor ran cooler this time then with the old set up??

Thanks Jean.

I think the reason the motor runs cooler now is probably based on a couple of factors. Last month, I phoned Tamiya down in Irvine and asked them what battery voltage they recommended I run the motor on.They said 7.2v.

Now, I had every intention to stick with 9.6v, but they said for max efficiency, 7.2v was the way to go. That's not to say that it couldn't run the higher voltage, but if it did, it would run a little hotter, thus decreasing the motor's life expectancy. Add to that the notion that the 380 was working harder to pull in more amps from the stock electronics.

I know it sounds weird, but it does make sense.

Once we did a test putting a regular 9.6V Toy battery in a new Bright Truck and then switching the battery for a 7.2V hobby grade battery and the truck ran then slower.. Kind of puzzled me to understand how hobby grade were way faster then toys running 7.2V vs a toy using 9.6V or more..mah being only more run time.

Jean.... better electronics, transmissions geared for more speed, wheel bearings, lighter weight, etc... are all reasons why hobby grades are faster than toy grades, even when running less voltage.

BTW, how's your Smash working out? Any upgrades?

Hi Fubar, in fact the Smash is in stand by in Brooklyn at my Brother's in law place and I will get it next month when he'll come back here taking a break from his medical studies there. So far just planning to use it as it is with the stock little battery pack and later probably thinking putting in a lipo 2S.

As far as a 540 rear end have you though about a Lunchbox or midnight pumpkin there both 1/12?

Right on, Jean....make sure you take a video of it running on that lipo.

bmaxx74 - I was actually thinking about that last night. My friend has a Pumpkin, so I thought about taking measurements of the the rear end and see if I can possibly make it work. Definitely worth considering.

What I was planning on trying to do was use the 540 rear end off a Nikko Thor. There's also a Nikko rear end with twin 380 motors on evilbay that looks interesting. Lots of different directions I could go with this.

Well, I'm going to have to scratch all plans as the chassis just wasn't able to hold up. I was doing some light bashing at the park, when I hit a small rock awkwardly, cracking the chassis straight across at the front bulkhead behind the servo.

Too bad, because I found some parts on ebay that were destined for this truck. Oh well....maybe I'll just look for a basket case blitzer or monster beetle and swap my parts onto that. I'll try to get a vid up as soon as I can.

RIP little toy should we say..! , I was looking for some infosabout those mofsets and trying to decode those voltage and amps,

http://www.futurlec.com/Transistors/IRF510pr.shtml

Do you still have the old toy mainboard you fried? Could you try to read the codes and numbers on the two mofsets that we suspect have fried?

Thanks!!!