The battery tray measures 55mm x 145mm

if you double up the packs listed above:
Dimensions: 1.7 x 1.2 x 5.4" (43 x 31 x 137mm)

you will have to trim the side of the battery tray as one pack will extend (31mm + 31mm) - 55m = 7mm over

I have done this with my Hyper 10SC as seen here:

Thanks bill. I saw one of your videos with an rc8 converted onroad. Will the DM-1 be as fast as that with a 2100kv 6pole motor on 4s with the stock gearing?

probably not, I was running a HobbyWing 4168-2250kV on 6S in that video, however I never got the car up to top speed, you can definitely expect better handling out of the DM1e for sure, but 4S to 6S is a BIG jump on acceleration and top speed.

2100kV on 4S is very respectable and pretty much the standard setup for most folks to get top speeds in the mid 40mph range. To get a better idea of what to expect, you should enter the data for your setup here:
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

For my RC8Be the calculator projects estimated speeds of 50mph on 4S and 76mph on 6S

Thanks for the info. Just read the Official DM-1 thread with 28 pages lol.

Most people are using 2560 or 2650kv though. It gets complicated with the mod needed to run smaller spurs though. I thought this would be a simple setup but lots are still unsure to include problems of keeping it to run straight.

So what is the maximum pinion size for the stock configuration? I saw someone post 17 or 18. Can you confirm which one is correct?

I am running a 13T pinion with the stock spur, and I have no need to bump up any higher with my 2350kV on 6S, I will post a video soon running some practice laps around the track with my current setup posted on the OP.

My car goes straight just fine, only problem is laying down too much power entering a straight from a sweeping turn. It handles like it's on rails at speeds under 30mph, then I am pushing the car to its limits as I approach 60mph.

I really appreciate your assistance, Bill. I am about to finalize my order and would like ask a few more questions, I hope you don’t mind.

- For the tire foams, how long do I have wait for the contact cement to settle prior to sticking the two ends, based on Jangs video? Contact cement the same as rubber cement or shooglue? Hopefully these are available at my local hardware store. And what else would you recommend to add to my tower shopping cart. Do I need a 3.0 hex? I already have a 1.5 2.0 and 2.5?
- What is the maximum size of pinion gear for the stock spur with no further modifications?
- Please confirm that I can dremel/modify the battery tray so I can fit two soft packs 3s 5000mah, with the body on (Duratrax Onyx). I will using a 2100kv motor and would prefer to use a 6s setup for the batteries I already have on hand.
- What would be the top speed with a 2100kv motor, 4s, and stock pinion and spur? 30-35mph?
- Is it true that the Turnigy Trackstar 150a ESC is actually junk? Heard really bad stories about them but I would think that this would be the best bang for the buck.

I may have more but this is all for now. I apologize for bombarding you with these questions my friend.

I find that AKA Tire glue works best for me, it usually dries in 5-10 seconds per section, first I glue the entire circumference of the inner bead, then I go back and touch up the walls of the bead being careful not to waste any glue.

The 3.0 hex will be necessary for replacing the pivot balls on the front suspension arms, if you never break these parts, then you will never need the 3.0 hex. I have made some nasty crashes into walls at 45mph+, only broken part so far has been the plastic pivot block (only needed 2.0 and 2.5 hexes to replace) and since replaced it with an aluminum block, no other breaks on the car.

no clue on the max size pinion, if you decide to go up on pinion, definitely buy a temp gun first per this thread here:
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=158567

like I said earlier about the battery tray, simply shave off the lip and one of the packs will hang over about 5-7mm, worst case, you might have to buy longer straps, but the stock velcro straps may possibly work just fine, not sure because I don't have those batteries to test fit.

Yes 35mph is typical for 4S 2100kV setups

I have not personally tested the TrackStar 150A ESC, just the blue label ESC that blew up as I showed in the OP. For 6S power, I would play it safe and get a HobbyWing XeRun, if you are running 4S, then the TrackStar 150A may be a good deal, but I can't say for sure because I haven't used it. I will say that my 5S rated Trackstar motor does great on 6S, but not sure if their ESC's are just as good as their motors. I know Castle makes great motors, but crappy ESC's.

In regards to the glue, I was asking about the foams that needs to be attached together as per Jang's video.

Ah... I see, I never use open cell foams, but if I did I would use contact cement. I prefer closed cell foams to make balancing the wheels easier

If you are just bashing, then it probably doesn't matter either way, you could just stuff them in place without gluing the foam at all

In referance to the Turnigy Trackstar 150a ESC, I have owned one and I can not stress enough that I DO NOT recommend it. The internal components are a clone of the mamba monster esc. Although the components used are of far less quality. Many people have had problems including me with the esc just dying. Mine during a run just turned off and has never turned on again. I have looked for the problem but have not been able to find it. If you want a quality esc that is not to much more expensive like bill recommended go for the 150amp xerun esc by hobbywing. It has been proven to be a great esc by many people and rivals the esc's twice the price.

If your looking to have a fast reliable DM-1 dont go for the cheapest electronics. Wait and save more money to get better quality stuff you will be happy you did. Also if you want your car to handle the best it can definitely dont use 2 3s 5000 mah packs. You will be happier using a smaller single 6s pack.