I find that AKA Tire glue works best for me, it usually dries in 5-10 seconds per section, first I glue the entire circumference of the inner bead, then I go back and touch up the walls of the bead being careful not to waste any glue.
The 3.0 hex will be necessary for replacing the pivot balls on the front suspension arms, if you never break these parts, then you will never need the 3.0 hex. I have made some nasty crashes into walls at 45mph+, only broken part so far has been the plastic pivot block (only needed 2.0 and 2.5 hexes to replace) and since replaced it with an aluminum block, no other breaks on the car.
no clue on the max size pinion, if you decide to go up on pinion, definitely buy a temp gun first per this thread here:
like I said earlier about the battery tray, simply shave off the lip and one of the packs will hang over about 5-7mm, worst case, you might have to buy longer straps, but the stock velcro straps may possibly work just fine, not sure because I don't have those batteries to test fit.
Yes 35mph is typical for 4S 2100kV setups
I have not personally tested the TrackStar 150A ESC, just the blue label ESC that blew up as I showed in the OP. For 6S power, I would play it safe and get a HobbyWing XeRun, if you are running 4S, then the TrackStar 150A may be a good deal, but I can't say for sure because I haven't used it. I will say that my 5S rated Trackstar motor does great on 6S, but not sure if their ESC's are just as good as their motors. I know Castle makes great motors, but crappy ESC's.
(Last edited by BillDeLong : 1.09.13 at 11:33 am)
Club Racer: SCT + eBuggy + Spec Slash + 17.5T Buggy + GT8e + USGT + VTA + 17.5T TC
Basher: Monster Trucks + Crawlers + Drifters + Motorcycles