True, but you seldom need more than 50% of torque to overcome an obstacle, especially if the truck is box stock light and low geared. Anyway you can set it to to 100% if you use a high turn crawler motor. The reason I suggest the XL5 is because of its waterproofness.

Outta Sight: It can be loosened up slightly by removing the two extra leaves from each spring set. I'm considering painstakingly sanding my springs down to make them thinner. I'll search to see if there are some aftermarket options first, though

Update!

Alright, progress with a few new poor-quality pictures this time. Everything done since my last post was purely in the cosmetic/detailing arena. You can really tell how much thought went into preparing this truck for the $400 Multi-Function Unit at the design stage. For extra realism with the MFU's vibration feature, the mufflers are actually hung from a very, very thin steel rod, so they can shake & rattle a little. There's no way I'm springing the big bucks for an MFU, though, so I'm instead focusing on just getting some lights going. Now, I figured that with an 8-channel radio and a full-on TLU-01 + TLU-02 setup, I'd be able to get all of the control I want. Alas, I cannot. I am going to add a remote-activated switch to let me control the roof lights separately, and am considering using a second TLU-01 dedicated just to the rear of the truck.

• Pic #1: Speaking of the roof lights, the buckets are made to hold LEDs and in fact the kit includes imitation LED plugs to use as dummies. However, the whole bar is not set up to handle all of the wiring very well. I remedied this by adding two notches behind the forward-most roll bar to let the Tamiya LED plugs through, and cutting a slot open between the first & second bars to allow wires to be fed through where needed. I then simply notched the underside in five spots to give access to a wider channel that's already there, and...
• Pic #2: I was able to run all of the wires inside the rollbars. Sorry the depth of field & lighting is terrible here, but hopefully you get general idea. The inside surface of the roll bars are sealed up with black electrical tape that's hardly even noticeable. All that's left visible are the stubs of wire coming out the back of the buckets. I hope to even tidy these up a tiny bit more.
• Pic #3: Self-explanatory. This is the whole body all done-up in final (for now) form. There's a mess of wires under there that you thankfully can't see.
• Pic #4: Speaking of messes! ESC, BEC, RX, LED controller unit, LED driver unit, and probably 1/3rd as many LEDs as will be hooked up -- here I just had a select number in place for testing purposes.

The remaining electronic bits have been ordered up and are on their way!

Tip:

• Two different muffler styles are included, with single & dual tips. Instead of chosing one and permanently cementing it to the pipe, use a bit of removable adhesive like Shoe Goo so you can change styles at a later date if you want.

leaf sprigs need to be broken in, so just beat on it and see what happens for now. As for more articulation.....I can't find the how to, so I'll do my best to describe it,

Here is your leaf spring eyelet: __O If you look at it long ways dead on, you get this: [] what you want it to look like is this: /_\
Also, remove the bushings from the eyelets to.

I also recommend using a anti wrap bar if you intend to do any type of crawling, it will save you the headache of "S" shaped leaf springs

For the /_\ part, do you mean grinding down the sides of the eyelet?

yes, sorry I should of just said that.

Grind down the sides of the eyelet, and remove the bushings....that's basically it.

Right on, thanks for the tips!

Oh, one thing I forgot to add. The Tamiya LEDs come connected in pairs, feeding battery voltage (about 8.5V at rest) in series (halving voltage of course) into standard 3.0/3.3V LEDs. However, the light bar has 5 lights. The middle one is just wired in parallel with a single lamp next to it. The draw is low and the LEDs are already getting more juice than they're rated for, so I can't see any difference in luminance between the parallel pair and the rest.

The body is sweet...the white color does represent a work truck! Splendid job on the detailing too! Did you paint the body in white, or is that a just a bare white styrene plastic?

Seeing this, makes me want a hard body Tamiya!! The details are just awesome compared to polycarbonate. I'd been building Tamiya plastic 1/24 scale model kits for years..but have yet to build their "1/10 scale model kits". I guess I need to save up to get a Hilux. Great build so far, I'm looking forward to see some action pics of this F350.

Thanks, and yep it is painted with Testors' "Classic White" which is a medium-bright white. I used some flat white as a backer that was slightly creamish, so it's a very very very slightly yellowish version of white.

Update:

All done. For now. There was plenty of room for the electronics on the radio deck, leaving space for a couple future components, to boot. All wires were carefully bundled and everything is disconnectable, though I need to move some of the zip ties around to aid cab removal.

I ended up putting both sets of headlights on one circuit, and I put in dual orange bulbs in each turn signal bezel for a nice even, wide shine. Into each side's turn signal circuit I patched a long extension back to that side's second taillight bulb. Both tail bulbs are red, so you end up with the whole tail being lit all the time, brighter under "braking" or at a stop, and flashing brighter with the turn signals. White reverse lights are back there too. Unfortunately when my battery started to go low I did notice that the two roof rail lights that I put in parallel are indeed dimmer than the others after all, so I'll have to fix that at a later date. Speaking of the roof lights, I ended up just putting a manual switch for them under a rear fender so I can run with them off, but still have the rest of the lights working. Oh, and with the external BEC, the lights work even if the ESC isn't switched on.

I'm happy with how the bed liner turned out. It's built up with alternating coarse layers of flat and semi-gloss enamel, with the final misting in semi-gloss. Gives a believable texture I hope.

I adjusted the control layout so now I have a more traditional lefty-throttle righty-steery setup, with the gear shift on a 3-position switch. Ideally I'd move the left x-axis spring to the y-axis on my transmitter since it's an air controller, but this will do for now. The next project that uses the 8ch setup needs no springs on the left at all, so leaving it alone is a decent compromise.

One beauty shot included!

I now officially want one of these more than ever.