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"Experienced user"
crazymike - 12.19.16, 2:35 am Post #21: | Reply With Quote
Thanks for all the ideas. Think I'm going to be patient (that will be a first in rc!) and pick up 4x4 roller to mess around with, try things out on.
How important are the metal driveshafts when running 3s? I mean if I just turn the punch right down and stay off high bite surfaces, would standard sliders be ok? Anybody run 3s with standard shafts (and get decent life out of them)?
SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
"Experienced user"
SlashMaxx4x4 - 12.19.16, 9:52 am Post #22: | Reply With Quote
I ran the stock setup with 2.8" Badlands and was fine on 3S for about a month, they will hold up for a while, but eventually will break. As for upgrades i agree with Dcuda go for the X-Duties.
"Gone Racing"
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"Experienced user"
Squeegie - 12.20.16, 11:32 am Post #23: | Reply With Quote
crazymike said
I mean if I just turn the punch right down and stay off high bite surfaces, would standard sliders be ok? Anybody run 3s with standard shafts (and get decent life out of them)?
Why bother going 3S and tuning it down and drive conservatively? Just stay 2S and run it hard.

If going 3S, build up for it and enjoy!

I run MMX/2250 and for my drivetrain: 20/50 gears, Teckno Big Bone center drive shaft, X0-1 diff cups, MIP X-Duty CVDs, and 17mm hex wheels.
TRAXXAS: Slash 4x4 Platinum, Mini E-Revo VXL, E-Maxx 3906 Wide Max
TAMIYA: Porsche 956 RM. Mk. 5, Vanessa's Lunch Box (OG), Sand Scorcher (OG)
"inadvertent durability tester"
oldnoob69 - 12.20.16, 5:13 pm Post #24: | Reply With Quote
Squeegie said
Why bother going 3S and tuning it down and drive conservatively? Just stay 2S and run it hard.

If going 3S, build up for it and enjoy!

I run MMX/2250 and for my drivetrain: 20/50 gears, Teckno Big Bone center drive shaft, X0-1 diff cups, MIP X-Duty CVDs, and 17mm hex wheels.
h3ll yeah!
2xRustler's Avatar
"Usable User"
2xRustler - 12.20.16, 8:14 pm Post #25: | Reply With Quote
crazymike said
Thanks for all the ideas. Think I'm going to be patient (that will be a first in rc!) and pick up 4x4 roller to mess around with, try things out on.
How important are the metal driveshafts when running 3s? I mean if I just turn the punch right down and stay off high bite surfaces, would standard sliders be ok? Anybody run 3s with standard shafts (and get decent life out of them)?
A lot depends on driving style. Most of mine broke as a result of one or more wheels hitting the ground while on the throttle. Too much power on landing from jumps or recovering from what would be a traction roll. I broke one of the fronts on the slide of a play structure. As reported by many here some break a lot, son break none. It's like c-hubs and bearing carriers on trx 2wd. Some break them all the time. In 15 years off and on running a Rustler I broke one of each.
Breaking toys and making noise
"Experienced user"
motoergosum - 1.02.17, 4:03 pm Post #26: | Reply With Quote
I haven't noticed a difference in wear on the drive train from jumps vs hard starts, braking, and trying to climb curbs. It's not the speed that kills parts, it's the sudden stop/starts. If you get a programmable ESC like Castle that'll let you adjust the power and braking curve, you'll reduce the strain on the drivetrain. The Sidewinder 3 or Pro SCT combo let you tune everything, even drag brake.

Save up for MIP axles for the front and back and save yourself some headaches. You won't regret the upgrade and durability. MIP sells stubs and replacement parts in case you go full-retard one day and manage to destroy the hardened steel parts.

Great shaft upgrade
http://amzn.to/2i3Iskt

MIP Axles
http://amzn.to/2iwNarS
http://amzn.to/2iY9oSO
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