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fyrstormer's Avatar
"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 7.16.16, 5:35 pm Post #11: | Reply With Quote
Ah. Hmm. I'm not sure I've ever seen a locked rear diff and open front diff used for anything besides drifting. Might make a rally car more exciting on pavement, but uncontrollable on dirt. I suppose the remote-locking feature would take care of that, though.
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STIGCRAFTER's Avatar
"Eat, Sleep, Lego, RC, Youtube,"
STIGCRAFTER - 7.16.16, 6:18 pm Post #12: | Reply With Quote
fyrstormer said
This is a very interesting development. Have you figured out where to put the locker servo yet?
Not yet. I was thinkng maybe just in front of the reciver box, but I'll wait until I've got the diff and shock tower in place for that.

fyrstormer said
From a purely functional perspective though, you *could* just permanently lock the front diff and the truck would handle just fine.
On a trail, yes, but I usually end up driving on asphalt and other high traction surfaces just as much as I go on rocks and trails. Plus, where's the fun in that?

David Brock said
I would think you'd want to permanently lock the rear and make the front lock\unlockable......
Like Fyrstormer said, a locked front diff seems the better option for off roady stuff, though the ultimate goal is to have locked diffs front and back. Might take a while, though
"Bambidexterous: When you can skin a deer with both hands" - Mike Falzone

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fyrstormer's Avatar
"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 7.17.16, 9:05 am Post #13: | Reply With Quote
Fun? Who said anything about fun? RC is serious business. That's why everything in the store says "THIS IS NOT A TOY" on it.
(Last edited by fyrstormer : 7.17.16 at 9:16 am)
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STIGCRAFTER's Avatar
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STIGCRAFTER - 7.20.16, 5:23 pm Post #14: | Reply With Quote
Dangit
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"Eat, Sleep, Lego, RC, Youtube,"
STIGCRAFTER - 7.20.16, 5:27 pm Post #15: | Reply With Quote
Update time!

Firstly, here's a better photo of the cut-up Summit case:



Secondly, I've added some other bits of plastic behind the diff to help keep it in place. The photo also shows the extent of the Slash diff I've cut out.



And finally here's a photo with the shocks and camber links connected to the shock tower:



(sorry about the photo links, I'll embed them later)
(Last edited by STIGCRAFTER : 7.21.16 at 12:20 am) Reason: Told you I'd embed them
"Bambidexterous: When you can skin a deer with both hands" - Mike Falzone

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aver3's Avatar
"RC crawler addict"
aver3 - 7.20.16, 5:50 pm Post #16: | Reply With Quote
fyrstormer said
Ah. Hmm. I'm not sure I've ever seen a locked rear diff and open front diff used for anything besides drifting. Might make a rally car more exciting on pavement, but uncontrollable on dirt. I suppose the remote-locking feature would take care of that, though.
The Axial Yeti comes stock with an open front different and a locked rear.
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fyrstormer's Avatar
"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 7.20.16, 5:51 pm Post #17: | Reply With Quote
It does, but that's because solid rear axles on RCs don't work right unless locked. You get horrible torque-steer if you unlock them, as I learned firsthand. Though the Yeti XL has an unlocked rear diff, which I think it can get away with because it's much bigger and heavier.

I was referring to vehicles with 4-wheel independent suspension, which behaves much differently.
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Velineon's Avatar
"Semi-Vacationing User"
Velineon - 7.20.16, 6:01 pm Post #18: | Reply With Quote
Progress looks great and this is a very interesting mod. You might want to JB-Weld the Summit and Slash pieces together once you're done so it will stay together.

Also I wonder is there any way we could have remotely locking rear diff for the Slash 4x4?
(Last edited by Velineon : 7.20.16 at 6:05 pm)
RCs Owned: Traxxas Slash 4x4 - Muscle Slash, Axial Exo-Terra Buggy, Tamiya TT-02 - 73 Carrera RS/85 AE86 Trueno Coupe
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fyrstormer's Avatar
"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 7.20.16, 7:55 pm Post #19: | Reply With Quote
JB Weld would work; hot glue would also work, and also offer a bit of flex to avoid breaking the glue joints.
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Velineon - 7.20.16, 9:00 pm Post #20: | Reply With Quote
fyrstormer said
JB Weld would work; hot glue would also work, and also offer a bit of flex to avoid breaking the glue joints.
I have a feeling hot glue won't provide enough of a hold.
RCs Owned: Traxxas Slash 4x4 - Muscle Slash, Axial Exo-Terra Buggy, Tamiya TT-02 - 73 Carrera RS/85 AE86 Trueno Coupe
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