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fyrstormer's Avatar
"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 7.20.16, 11:45 pm Post #21: | Reply With Quote
I dunno, hot glue is the commonly-accepted way to anchor Summit diffs inside their bulkheads once they start to wiggle themselves loose. I did it to my Summit's rear diff a year ago and it's still solid.

I think I may have gotten extra-strength hot glue, though. Whatever was the best-looking stuff at Michael's craft store.
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STIGCRAFTER's Avatar
"Eat, Sleep, Lego, RC, Youtube,"
STIGCRAFTER - 7.21.16, 12:14 am Post #22: | Reply With Quote
^^^ I might look into JB Weld stuff. I assume it's just a strong glue? Might also look at hot glue.

Also, with a rear locking diff, I'd think it would be a similar process. Hopefully I'll attempt that after I've finished the front.
(Last edited by STIGCRAFTER : 7.21.16 at 12:22 am)
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JesterTheJoker - 7.21.16, 7:40 am Post #23: | Reply With Quote
jb weld is steel reinforced epoxy, strong stuff
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Velineon - 7.21.16, 11:02 am Post #24: | Reply With Quote
If people can fix engine blocks with it, you can glue a summit bulkhead with it
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fyrstormer's Avatar
"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 7.21.16, 12:53 pm Post #25: | Reply With Quote
JB Weld is epoxy. They call it "steel reinforced", but the metal powder mixed in doesn't add anything to the strength, it just makes it more heat-conductive, so it expands and contracts evenly when used on hot engines. Its strength comes from the fact that it's a slow-setting epoxy that takes an entire day to fully harden; any other slow-setting epoxy will do the same.

Hot glue would be strong enough for this purpose, with the benefit that you'd be able to break it loose by heating it if you ever need to. Once epoxy sets, the only way to remove it is to break it or grind it off.
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STIGCRAFTER's Avatar
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STIGCRAFTER - 7.21.16, 3:31 pm Post #26: | Reply With Quote
In that case, I might just use hot glue, at first. I may change to JB weld later on, though. Depends on what happens when I actually drive it.
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"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 7.21.16, 3:49 pm Post #27: | Reply With Quote
I like your sigline.
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STIGCRAFTER - 7.21.16, 8:56 pm Post #28: | Reply With Quote
^^^
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Mr Clickerson's Avatar
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Mr Clickerson - 7.22.16, 12:03 am Post #29: | Reply With Quote
JB Weld is the way to go. It may only be epoxy but its a very good epoxy and the only thing I would consider for your needs. Hot glue isn't something I'd ever have considered but that's mainly due to the fact its primarily used for arts and crafts, and isnxt particularly durable in this setting.

Yes, it may be useful in the scenario of holding Summit or Revo diffs still inside the bulkhead, but that's solely because it fills the hole and molds to the components, and in that case is relatively easy to remove.

Aside from that, digging the project, its what Traxxas should have done with the Telluride from the start.

fyrstormer's Avatar
"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 7.22.16, 12:22 am Post #30: | Reply With Quote
I didn't say JB Weld is no good because it's "only epoxy". I just said the metal powder doesn't improve its strength vs. other 12-hour epoxies. It *is* probably easiest 12-hour epoxy to find in a store, though.

You are underestimating the strength of "professional-strength" hot glue, but there's no point arguing about it.

If I *really* don't want two plastic pieces to come apart, I drill a hole through them and bolt them together.

However it gets put together, I hope it works. If it does work, maybe RPM could be talked into making a pre-made diff case for the Telluride that can hold a Summit diff.
(Last edited by fyrstormer : 7.22.16 at 12:25 am)
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