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"Experienced user"
Billy Kelly - 6.18.17, 2:50 pm Post #11531: | Reply With Quote
lsear2905 said
I had another run of the Q32 last night (well, mostly my daughter did) and that's a fun little car. Pity the original owner failed miserably at putting on the stickers - my mild OCD really hates wonky stickers!!



MiniZ tires work on the Q32 good. Slightly smaller in width for rear wheel. But work. Watch the front pins. They have a habit of working themselves loose. Happened with both my Q32 and the SC28.
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"Experienced user"
rex6638 - 6.18.17, 3:45 pm Post #11532: | Reply With Quote
fyrstormer said
I like brushed motors because they never cog, and I admire the ingenuity of mechanical commutation, which took a century of technological development before it could be replaced with electronic commutation in brushless motors. Also, there's a bit of a challenge in getting parts that are moving fast and rubbing together to not destroy each other.

Brushed motors work fine in all my other vehicles that have them. I maintain them maybe once a year apiece, twice a year if I'm bored and looking for something to do. This one is a special case because it's installed in a fast off-road truck, so it's pushing the motor harder than any of my other vehicles do. I'm trying to see if I can find the limit of what a brushed motor can handle nowadays, and balance on that limit. I thought I had it with the original build, but in retrospect it was geared too high and I was too dense to realize it because I was focused on top-speed numbers. Changing the brushes changed the load on the commutator and suddenly the motor being overloaded became painfully obvious. My fault.

The spare motor is just defective, and I would've found that out someday anyway. It will be going back to the place from whence it came for repair or replacement.

9 of my running vehicles are brushless; 13 are brushed (6 of which are crawlers); 8 are nitro. I'd probably have some gas-powered vehicles too, if they weren't all enormous, ridiculously loud, and foul-smelling.
Years ago, when I first got into the hobby, I ran Trinity Speed Gems Pro motors and the sweet spot for the pinion was usually 1 or 2 teeth fewer than the number of turns of the motor. That was based on a 450 size motor with a 6 cell ni-cad battery, a 550 size motor with a 2 cell lipo should be able to be safely geared a little higher
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"ae fanboy"
Kingy - 6.18.17, 4:34 pm Post #11533: | Reply With Quote
fyrstormer said
I like brushed motors because they never cog, and I admire the ingenuity of mechanical commutation, which took a century of technological development before it could be replaced with electronic commutation in brushless motors. Also, there's a bit of a challenge in getting parts that are moving fast and rubbing together to not destroy each other.

Brushed motors work fine in all my other vehicles that have them. I maintain them maybe once a year apiece, twice a year if I'm bored and looking for something to do. This one is a special case because it's installed in a fast off-road truck, so it's pushing the motor harder than any of my other vehicles do. I'm trying to see if I can find the limit of what a brushed motor can handle nowadays, and balance on that limit. I thought I had it with the original build, but in retrospect it was geared too high and I was too dense to realize it because I was focused on top-speed numbers. Changing the brushes changed the load on the commutator and suddenly the motor being overloaded became painfully obvious. My fault.

The spare motor is just defective, and I would've found that out someday anyway. It will be going back to the place from whence it came for repair or replacement.

9 of my running vehicles are brushless; 13 are brushed (6 of which are crawlers); 8 are nitro. I'd probably have some gas-powered vehicles too, if they weren't all enormous, ridiculously loud, and foul-smelling.
I cant stand cogging, and I'm perfectly fine with quality sensored brushless setups for all my racing and bashing rigs, and even for light crawling.

I get its fun to use old tech, but there comes a point where its just not worth it. You could get an esc and motor that will work all day for the price of just the motor alone.

Plus, and I love how much you hate this, volt up, gear down. That motor in your slash would love some 3s action.
Associated [RC10B5M - RC10T4.1 FT - RC10B4.1 WORLD'S - RC10B44.2 - RC8T CE-E - RC8BE]
Durango [DESC210R] Ofna [NEXX10SC] Serpent [S411] RC4WD [Bully - Bully2]
Gmade [Sawback] Axial [Scx10 - Wraith - Yeti] Eagle Racing [TT-01 V.3] MST [FXX-D]
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"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 6.18.17, 4:37 pm Post #11534: | Reply With Quote
I know it would. I don't object to volting up and gearing down, but I have a pile of 2S batteries already. If I can find some good 3S hardcase packs maybe I'll look into replacing my 2S packs with them as they wear-out.
Check out "Fyrstormer's Garage" in the General RC forum.
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"Hasa Diga Eebowai!"
lsear2905 - 6.18.17, 6:16 pm Post #11535: | Reply With Quote
Billy Kelly said
MiniZ tires work on the Q32 good. Slightly smaller in width for rear wheel. But work. Watch the front pins. They have a habit of working themselves loose. Happened with both my Q32 and the SC28.
I'm finding after each run that it's best to remove the wheels and clean out any lint/fur/carpet. Easy, takes about 30 seconds. Otherwise, I'd love to turn down the steering a bit, but don't think it's possible.
from Melbourne, Australia (where Winter is Summer, and we use the metric system)

Bored? Check out and follow my Instagram feed @mycousinscrogg
Really bored? lsear2905's Garage in the General RC section
Want even more? Check out my flickr page at flickr.com/lsear
"Experienced user"
Billy Kelly - 6.18.17, 7:02 pm Post #11536: | Reply With Quote
lsear2905 said
I'm finding after each run that it's best to remove the wheels and clean out any lint/fur/carpet. Easy, takes about 30 seconds. Otherwise, I'd love to turn down the steering a bit, but don't think it's possible.
Yes. It will find everything on the ground. Steering was twitchy at best. Took me a lot of practice to get a basic layout on the plywood floor. I tried on a MiniZ track couple times. Way too much grip. MiniZ tires made a big difference. There was one steering adjustment. On chassis. Think it was just for centering but can't remember

Here's try on the MiniZ track.


https://youtu.be/4xYRyp4h4vI
"Experienced user"
Billy Kelly - 6.18.17, 8:16 pm Post #11537: | Reply With Quote
2 runs with the Yokomo. Gearing change for second run. Spent afternoon at HobbyTown running 1/18. Bought another Dromida. Brushed Touring car. I've had a bit of an issue with steering on the other 2. Just haven't gotten to them. Figure why not.
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"Experienced user"
slick2500 - 6.18.17, 8:50 pm Post #11538: | Reply With Quote
Took out the Apex and about halfway through the run all it wanted to do was doughnuts. Then I noticed I only had 3wd. I tore apart half the car before I noticed the grub screw in the diff out drive had backed off just enough to allow the out drive to spin on the out put shaft. A little Loctite and everything was good.
Ecx 2wd Ruckus
Traxxas Stampede XL-5
Traxxas Summit 1/10
Team Associated Apex
Team Associated RC10B2
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"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 6.18.17, 9:44 pm Post #11539: | Reply With Quote
Cleaned the motor on my Slash and tested it again. Nope, it definitely has a dead coil. Back to Holmes it goes. I'm sick of troubleshooting it at this point.

I drove my T-Maxx later. It ran like a champ.
Check out "Fyrstormer's Garage" in the General RC forum.
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"Experienced user"
slick2500 - 6.19.17, 1:59 pm Post #11540: | Reply With Quote
I really wish nitro was easier, I'm too impatient to have to fiddle with carb settings.
Ecx 2wd Ruckus
Traxxas Stampede XL-5
Traxxas Summit 1/10
Team Associated Apex
Team Associated RC10B2
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