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lsear2905's Avatar
"I have the BEST words!"
lsear2905 - 12.05.16, 3:57 pm Post #1: | Reply With Quote
So, I know the 2WD platform demands aluminium caster blocks, and I also know that you try to avoid having metal on metal.

With that in mind, should I upgrade the steering block,



OR, should I upgrade the 'C' hub?



Bonus internet points for telling me your experience with Traxxas/ST Racing for these specific parts (not other, different parts please)!!
from Melbourne, Australia (where Winter is Summer, and we use the metric system)

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fyrstormer's Avatar
"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 12.05.16, 4:01 pm Post #2: | Reply With Quote
I'm running plastic on all of mine. The 4x4 hubs are much stronger.
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lsear2905's Avatar
"I have the BEST words!"
lsear2905 - 12.05.16, 4:10 pm Post #3: | Reply With Quote
fyrstormer said
I'm running plastic on all of mine. The 4x4 hubs are much stronger.
Mine have worn out after a couple of years... realistically I could replace them with more plastic, but I thought I'd get one of the bits in aluminium.

I'm leaning towards the C hubs, because I've found that aluminium + bearings ends badly, with seized and stuck bearings.

Actually, having reminded myself of this, I think I've solved my dilemma!
from Melbourne, Australia (where Winter is Summer, and we use the metric system)

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Dcuda69's Avatar
"Experienced user"
Dcuda69 - 12.05.16, 4:30 pm Post #4: | Reply With Quote
I have an Ultimate, they come from Traxxas with both pieces in aluminum as well as the rears. I've had zero issues with them at all. I do use Emaxx lower pins cut to proper length to tighten things up as the stock pins are a tick to short to go all the way through the carriers. Good luck!!
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fyrstormer's Avatar
"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 12.05.16, 8:10 pm Post #5: | Reply With Quote
I've had very good luck with bearings fitting into STRC hubs. The bearing slots are perfectly sized to hold the bearings without wobbling, but they are still easy to push out when necessary, and STRC machines small openings into the bearing slots for you to push the bearings out.

Keep in mind that aluminum C-hubs will wear out as well from the kingpin screws rotating in the pivot holes. There is no perfect solution. My general approach nowadays is to upgrade to aluminum if the hubs tend to break, but if they just wear out from normal use I replace them with more plastic. Maybe try the RPM plastic hubs?
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guys2nv's Avatar
"Experienced User"
guys2nv - 12.05.16, 8:29 pm Post #6: | Reply With Quote
The 4x4 hubs are way stronger then the ancient 2wd design.

Bearings are a lot easier to remove and install with the right tool.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252573109446?redirect=mobile
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fyrstormer's Avatar
"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 12.05.16, 8:51 pm Post #7: | Reply With Quote
Now they just need to make a tool that can *pull* bearings out, for those times when there isn't enough clearance around the inner diameter of a bearing to be able to push it out.
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ThePanda's Avatar
"Experienced user"
ThePanda - 12.06.16, 5:28 am Post #8: | Reply With Quote
Nitro engines use bearing pullers. There probably is something somewhere that serves the same purpose for other applications.
Tamiya crazed
fyrstormer's Avatar
"Precision Basher"
fyrstormer - 12.06.16, 9:53 am Post #9: | Reply With Quote
I've always just heated my engine blocks on a hotplate to make the bearings fall out.
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