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"Experienced user"
MirMirShay - 12.19.16, 10:27 am Post #11: | Reply With Quote
Ive built so many diff with my husband on our multiple emaxxes (3)and all our friends slash 4x4 three total slashes., I love traxxas but there bearing tolerances, durability are horrible the worst i have ever used in a rtr. If i were you i would pick up a set of avid bearings. $20 shipped as a starting point , also Shims are your best friends,did you shim by chance? it almost sounds like its shimmed to tight in the first video. I have a winning 11 month old on my lap so i might not of heard right. Ive had the same sound when i shimmed the diff to tight and also when a small part of the crown gear greaks and wedges off in the gear also when the screws in the diff cups back out. I know you come asking for advise and not ways to spend money so sorry if thats how i come off. Also emaxx,erevo plastic diff cup case with the i bar will make it just about bullet proof. The aluminum diff cup is popular i have not needed one in my emaxx diffs with huge proline rock rage tires, but some people do.
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"Experienced user"
MirMirShay - 12.19.16, 10:36 am Post #12: | Reply With Quote
good luck i would start by taking tires off and seeing if it still does it, then pull bearings and inspect and either re lube or replace ( i would replace), then pull diff and inspect crown gear and pinion for any chips /wear. Then open diff cup and inspect for wear on the inside of the cup and internal gears. I always replace the diff cup any time i remove the screws, its a $3.50 part and plastic does not like being un-screwed and re-screwed often. The stock slash 4x4 diff cup is poorly made, the erevo,emaxx,xo1 is alot beefier with bracing. I honestly would pick up 2 diff cups and new spider/inside gears. A total of $13.. and put in whatever silicon diff oil you prefer. Again good luck i hope you get it fixed soon and get running again merry xmass
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"Experienced user"
Eric1977 - 12.19.16, 1:57 pm Post #13: | Reply With Quote
Changed the wheel hexes - no change.

Found the problem - the 4 small screws on the diff housing had backed out a bit after that one pack - maybe too much grease and thus it extruded through the holes. The diff casing was switched to initially fix the problem but when the screws backed out it made the mesh between to ring and pinion off - once I tighted those back up the sound was gone!

Now just have to find a way from keeping them from backing out.

Thanks for the help everyone
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"Experienced user"
thegrafxguy - 12.19.16, 5:32 pm Post #14: | Reply With Quote
At that point it sounds like you might as well upgrade to an aluminum diff case. A little ca glue will help keep that from happening but it's not the most ideal situation as it won't be permanent. Do not use blue thread lock though, that will eat the plastic.
Arrma Talion - ACE Ripper 2000kv, HW Quicrun 150a, Brushless 25kg servo

Sakura D4 AWD - Tacon 3930kv, HW EZRun 60a, Blue Bird Servo

Spektrum DX4S
"Experienced user"
MirMirShay - 12.21.16, 3:38 pm Post #15: | Reply With Quote
thegrafxguy said
At that point it sounds like you might as well upgrade to an aluminum diff case. A little ca glue will help keep that from happening but it's not the most ideal situation as it won't be permanent. Do not use blue thread lock though, that will eat the plastic.
agree on the blue thread lock lol i found out the hard way
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"Experienced user"
MirMirShay - 12.21.16, 3:40 pm Post #16: | Reply With Quote
Eric1977 said
Changed the wheel hexes - no change.

Found the problem - the 4 small screws on the diff housing had backed out a bit after that one pack - maybe too much grease and thus it extruded through the holes. The diff casing was switched to initially fix the problem but when the screws backed out it made the mesh between to ring and pinion off - once I tighted those back up the sound was gone!

Now just have to find a way from keeping them from backing out.

Thanks for the help everyone
good luck,if you cant afford a aluminum diff cup just pay the $3.50 buy a new one. I use the gel super glue on mine.
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