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riderinblack's Avatar
"Experienced user"
riderinblack - 1.24.17, 8:50 pm Post #41: | Reply With Quote
Awesome idea and thread!

As for gluing that diffkenstein together, use a good 2 part apoxy, jbweld, loctite , or gorilla glue. I've had good luck with gorilla glue apoxy.

Any glue you use will be useless unless you prep your parts correctly. Rough up the surfaces as much as possible. I usually slap a 1/16 thick cutoff wheel on my Dremel and make very shallow cuts across the two surfaces that I'll be joining together. I then rough it up with 220 grit, air blast it to blow off the dust from cutting and finally clean it really well with soap and warm water to remove the oils and then with alcohol to clean it further.

I'm looking forward to seeing this thing in action
"The predator lives alone, he accepts this reality as the cost for his existence "
STIGCRAFTER's Avatar
"Eat, Sleep, Lego, RC, Youtube,"
STIGCRAFTER - 2.11.17, 2:55 am Post #42: | Reply With Quote
So, after about 4 months of progress with this project Iíve finally got around to posting it here, which is good because Iíve completed diff itself!

Also, before I start I should point out that I finished the diff without using JB weld (it would make it impossible to put together properly) or an aluminium shock tower, which negates most of the conversation thatís been in this thread.

Anyways, after the last update I got the parts for the inside of the diff (except for a small bearing I got later), and I finished cutting the rear of the diff case and make the final diff assembly:









Öwhich means I could put my car back together with it, which is where I found out I needed to Dremel out a little bit of the camber link so it wouldnít hit the driveshaft:





[Thatís a nice lookiní shock]

To compensate for the diff being the other way round I had to turn the rear diff around as well, which required making the slot for the left bearing a bit bigger, and adding some electrical tape around the right smaller bearing.

I have taken it driving with the new diff, but I donít have any way of changing the diff remotely yet, or holing it in place at all, so I just tied the diff arm into the locked position. The car drove just fine for my brief initial test and during most of a camping trip (until a balance lead broke), with no breakages or trouble, though it did highlight the play in my drivetrain (I really need to get new driveshafts).

The next step is making it switch remotely. I already have a micro servo and a 5 channel receiver, and Iím working on a way to connect the arm on the diff and the servo. I think I need to find a strong wire for it, like how itís done on the summit. Iíve tried an unwinded paper clip, which seems to weak, and a coat hanger, which was too big.

Finally, hereís a bonus picture of my workbench while I was working on it:

(Last edited by STIGCRAFTER : 2.11.17 at 12:38 pm) Reason: Fixed photos
"Bambidexterous: When you can skin a deer with both hands" - Mike Falzone

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