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"Regular user"
Pak713 - 2.27.17, 3:09 am Post #1: | Reply With Quote
Hey everyone about a year ago I bought a latrax Teton for my son on his birthday. He's 9. The car has been fun but breaks almost every time we/he plays with it. It's ridiculous. I believe this car is a waste of money. Anyway too late for that now. I've had to replace the steering servo, body mounts, and recently cv or half shafts. When I replaced the half shafts I bought the hot racing steel half shafts for the rear. Put them on and put the car back together. He took it outside played with it for 10 minutes came back in and said dad the tires wont move. Long story short the plastic gears on the differential tubes were gone. Why plastic? So after looking everywhere on the internet I've came up empty handed on a steel all replacement rear differential. Every post I've came across even on here the guy who posted the latrax Teton bible, the parts are no longer available. The only place I can find a steel differential tube is eBay from Hong Kong. Where I'm at right now is just going back to stock half shafts and stock differentials and super glueing them. My son and I are not ex geniuses we are new to this. But the car seems easy to work on. Starting to wish I would bought a different car now. Thanks everyone.
"Experienced user"
Billy Kelly - 2.27.17, 3:36 am Post #2: | Reply With Quote
Is this what you are looking for


Or check AMainhobbbies.

(Last edited by Billy Kelly : 2.27.17 at 3:50 am)
"Regular user"
Pak713 - 2.27.17, 8:23 am Post #3: | Reply With Quote
No but thanks for the reply. Those two gears are already steel from the factory.
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"Experienced user"
KristofferR - 2.27.17, 12:11 pm Post #4: | Reply With Quote
Hey Pak and welcome to URC. Sorry to hear about your bad experiences. I have had three of these little Tetons and found them quite durable, going for months between repairs - but our styles of driving may vary. I started exactly one year ago with a Teton for my 8yo and it just snowballed.

The body mounts does break, happened to two of mine but in a way, that's better than breaking the body. Diffs are weak, but reasonably straightforward to replace as they wear out. I did the Team Associated diff mod and lent that car to a friend but he still has not driven it yet.

Upgrading the Teton to take more abuse is costly, there's parts but they do add up a lot of $ and everything stock is basically "just enough" - you will just move to the next weak link in the chain. That is sort of the case with all RC cars though. Cyrano, the guy who started the "Bible" thread is a major fan of the Teton platform and that's why he did it all.

I like it too but I liked the 1/16 Traxxas much more and decided to move on. They are, IMHO, tougher. Maybe moving soon again - currently rebuilding a 1/10 Stampede and getting to know it.

Anyway: Dont give up. It sucks that you got off to a bad start and obviously you need a more durable car for your kid. Use the opportunity and get something else - if money allows it. It's not an entire waste of money because you got started and learned something and the Teton will sell on eBay.

So far, I've managed to break all but one of my eleven RC cars at least once and judging by the forum members things break. Many members have experienced the "it breaks every time I drive it" blues. Without statistics it's hard to know which cars really hold up to abuse but some models stand out. My Traxxas 1/16 cars do NOT I have had all the standard "breaks" and I think they would be too weak for your purpose but they are good enough for my kids.

Maybe a 4x4 Slash will be tough enough, but I have almost no firsthand experience with it. Arrma seems very strong. They are usually a bit cheaper to buy.
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"Regular user"
Pak713 - 2.27.17, 1:47 pm Post #5: | Reply With Quote
Thank you for your reply. Oh we aren't giving up that easy. Too much fun to be had. Honestly I like working on stuff especially when I know nothing about it. My kids tell the other kids in the neighborhood my dad can fix anything. Lol. That's a pretty good feeling honestly and humorous at the same time. I guess I just wish I could find what I was looking for. I've read the traxxas slash was a better car. But at this time I can't do it. If I was to upgrade I would want to see it first before I bought it. I might have to give my local ex shop a call. But for now we will keeping fixing the Teton. Pain is the good parts you can find cost an arm and a leg. I paid $20 for the hr cv shafts and that's just one set. We went through three stock steering servos when we first go it. Upgraded to a all metal one I believe it was corona, had to do a little modifying but it's a lot stronger than stock. Stock parts are pretty cheap but overtime it's a pain. Thanks again guys. I'll keep you updated.
"Regular user"
Pak713 - 3.08.17, 3:22 pm Post #6: | Reply With Quote
So I did end up replacing both the front and rear differentials with stock traxxas differentials. Since that's all I could find. I did find an aluminum tube with a steel differential gear as a replacement. But decided against it. The aluminum ones are $35 a piece from Hong Kong. I'd have more than half of what the car cost in differentials for the front and rear. After replacing the diffs with stock ones, my son played with the car one time and smoked the front diff I just changed. Luckily I had another spare diff. Changed it again, and it's grinding again after one run. This is ridiculous. These cars are made so cheap. I'm disgusted. STAY AWAY FROM THE TETON. Buy something better and more durable.
"Experienced user"
Billy Kelly - 3.08.17, 3:29 pm Post #7: | Reply With Quote
Bad experience with an RC can happen. I've had Teton for 2 years. Only replaced rear diff once. Otherwise it's as it came out the box. Good to read that he likes running it. Wish could give better answers as to why things are breaking.
"Experienced user"
nsticka - 3.21.17, 9:39 am Post #8: | Reply With Quote
look for team associated R18c diff assemblies.
they drop right in and can be found on ebay.
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"Regular user"
steakman4 - 4.29.17, 6:31 pm Post #9: | Reply With Quote
In case you had not seen, they released a new version with metal spider gears and outdrives.


A lot cheaper than the GPM.
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lsear2905 - 5.03.17, 12:34 am Post #10: | Reply With Quote
I'd also suggest shimming the diffs, especially the rear one, although I'm looking forward to ordering the metal ones when they become available.
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