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"Experienced user"
bwmndl - 1.29.11, 8:28 pm Post #11: | Reply With Quote
I run a 2wd Slash
extreme lcg chassis
TRX Aluminum 30degree caster blocks (front)
TRX Aluminum bell crank
Protrac suspension
Big bore shocks/ duel stage pistons(medium)
40 wt losi oil
Losi springs (orange,blue,green)
Right now green front / blue rear
Novak Havoc SS pro 10.5
Havoc sport esc
The track I run on is a slippery to medium track ( Cap city Raceway)
Front shocks top inside hole/bottom outside hole
Rear shocks top inside hole/ bottom second hole from outside
Rear hub carriers top caster link=the outside bottom hole of the six
Rear hub carriers bottom= top of the two holes
Caster links inside front / rear=middle of the three holes
V2 slipper clutch
20/87 gearing
FLM diff / 50wt oil
Wishbones super soft (red) rear
Wishbone soft ( green) Front
Airtronics M11

I think that is it.
federally's Avatar
"Big Talkin Know Nothin"
federally - 1.29.11, 9:21 pm Post #12: | Reply With Quote
First off when it comes to tires it's impossible for me to make a suggestion without knowing the track. I can give some advice tho; You need to chat up the guys who you say are "riding on rails" and find out wat they are putting on the rear wheels. Also if you're pushing in corners find out a tire that works good on the front. Based on your setup it seems you've already figured out you shouldn't be running the same tires and ompound from and back.

The first setup suggestion I would make is take those dual stage pistons out of the rear shocks and put in some regular pistons, this may require a change in oil as well. Problem with the dual stage pistons is they allow too much rebound, when weight shifts to the rear those pistons allow the shocks to rebound too easily and shift that weight back to the front. This hurts your rear traction, I ran those pistons all the way around for a while and I just recently took them out of the back shocks due to this reason. I have left them in the front because my track and basing surfaces are very uneven and require my front wheels to absorb a lot of minor bumps and still keep the tires on the ground and I have no problems cornering so I don't think it's hurting me there.

Also another basic way to reduce spin outs is to either increase the punch ontrol setting in the Esc or loosening the slipper clutch. I race on a very dry, dusty low grip track and I have to run a very loose slipper to help me out when I grab too much throttle out of a corner.

One bit you left out that's pretty important, what are your camber angles all around and what's your toe upfront?
Electrix Ruckus EzRun 60amp esc + Vxl motor
Axial SCX10 Sidewinder Sv2 + Tacon 1200kv motor

Sparta, TN
"Experienced user"
bwmndl - 1.29.11, 9:24 pm Post #13: | Reply With Quote
2 degrees all 4 corners
federally's Avatar
"Big Talkin Know Nothin"
federally - 1.29.11, 9:58 pm Post #14: | Reply With Quote
And your problem cornering is due to excessive oversteer and not understeer right?
Electrix Ruckus EzRun 60amp esc + Vxl motor
Axial SCX10 Sidewinder Sv2 + Tacon 1200kv motor

Sparta, TN
AbSoLooT's Avatar
"Experienced user"
AbSoLooT - 2.08.11, 2:24 pm Post #15: | Reply With Quote
Question for myself. I added the protrac, and once I did so, my rear end Toe in, is way to bad. Especially on one side. The other side isnt bad at all. I read about the 1 degree strcs, but if i got those, switched sides to "fix" the problem, it might be to much and point outwards and they wont match. My pede is 14 years old, wel... lol. only the tranny case, and chassis. lol. everything else down to every bolt is new. hehe. Anyone else have the protrac and have "to much " toe in? I think its my tranny, but wanted to make sure because i keep getting parts and dont need em. lol. (like extra stuff though) Note. I tired the protrac rear carriers on, and they are the same way as my strcs (no tilt) I am also running 2.2 revolvers, and brand new masher 2ks. those arent the prob.

anyone else have the protrac and have to much toe in problem too?
federally's Avatar
"Big Talkin Know Nothin"
federally - 2.08.11, 5:03 pm Post #16: | Reply With Quote
The protrac kit adds in some toe in but it's not too much and is the same on both sides. On a stampede with those big tires the angle will look much more extreme but it's still the same amount of degrees of toe in.

When you say it's not the same on both sides, well it is the same on both sides as toe in is not adjustable. So as long as you're using the same parts on both sides it will be the same. Makes me think either something is broken or you're thinking camber and calling it toe by mistake.
Electrix Ruckus EzRun 60amp esc + Vxl motor
Axial SCX10 Sidewinder Sv2 + Tacon 1200kv motor

Sparta, TN
AbSoLooT's Avatar
"Experienced user"
AbSoLooT - 2.16.11, 10:52 pm Post #17: | Reply With Quote
Na brotha, its the toe in. I have a 14 yr old tranny, and u can see the space difference inbetween the arm and the tranny. Very minute, but it amplifiys by the end of the rear arm. Also a few things like which direction the screw on top of the rear carrier made a diff in increasing, and decreasing. It ended up being my old skool tranny, and a new one was the solution. Like the holes were drilled slightly off from one anouther. Never a prob with stock arms with no toe in all this time, and i alway had em dead on, but once i added the protrac it amplified and poped its ugly head out. I got it fiqured out thanks brotha.
federally's Avatar
"Big Talkin Know Nothin"
federally - 2.17.11, 6:37 am Post #18: | Reply With Quote
I guess the idea of a manufacturing flaw never occurred to me. Good job figuring that out
Electrix Ruckus EzRun 60amp esc + Vxl motor
Axial SCX10 Sidewinder Sv2 + Tacon 1200kv motor

Sparta, TN
"Experienced user"
Steven1957 - 12.05.16, 2:12 pm Post #19: | Reply With Quote
Is that 3 degrees toe in? Would that be called +3 degrees or - 3 degrees?




theJANG said
Stock is 3 degrees per side. Add 1 deg:

http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...product_id=460

Add 1.5 deg (also changes width verrrrry slightly if I'm not mistaken) :

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXYTH7&P=FR
Abomb's Avatar
"Experienced user"
Abomb - 12.11.16, 12:00 pm Post #20: | Reply With Quote
bwmndl said
2 degrees all 4 corners
Try 3 degrees in the rear...and maybe drop your ride height a touch in the rear. You want to shift chassis weight to the rear end when accelerating out of the corner. There are multiple ways to do that, but ride height is the easiest adjustment. The extra degree of camber may put a touch more tire on the ground, on the outside rear.
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