ALRIGHT ALRIGHT I GOT A SHORT COURSE TRUCK, JEEZ. Three years into this hobby and I finally ran out of excuses to avoid it.
Although I should clarify, when I say "I got a short course truck", what I mean is I bought an RTR and then replaced almost all the parts. I'm not kidding; the only stock parts left are the hubs, caster blocks, wheel hexes, front bulkhead, and two of the internal transmission gears. If I had it to do over again, I'd have just built it from parts, but as it happened I had no idea how many upgrades I would end up making by the time I was finished. I'm sure someone will come along and say "that's what you get for buying a Slash", and yeah, that *is* what I get. It came out well, though.
The Slash I started with was the F-150 Raptor version. Obviously, the body you see above is not the original body, but a Pro-Line F-150 Raptor with the front and rear "bumpers" trimmed to fit around the real chassis-mounted bumpers. To be honest, Pro-Line's F-150 Raptor body was the inspiration for this entire vehicle; even if it isn't "true scale" as advertised, I liked the way it looked so much I built a vehicle to put it on.
As mentioned, the Pro-Line body was trimmed to work with the chassis-mounted bumpers, which were replaced with RPM parts. Making it fit in the front involved cutting off the front skirt detail and trimming along the underside of the grille detail to provide enough clearance for the front bumper to fit.
Making the body fit in the rear involved cutting off the rear bumper detail, and then hollowing out a space for the rear bumper support to pass through. It would've been nice if I hadn't had to cut that big hole in the tailgate, but the RPM rear bumper obscures it enough that it still looks good to me.
The Slash came with the stock chassis, and after a single short run it was painfully obvious that the center of gravity was way too high. So I got the LCG chassis, which helped a lot, and I got a set of RPM adjustable body mounts so I could lower the body a bit. Unfortunately they weren't designed for use with the F-150 body that the truck came with, but I eventually figured out how to get the rear body mount to sit low enough to accommodate the flat "pickup-truck bed" that the original Slash body doesn't have. (no amazing feat of engineering involved; I just attached the rear mount lower than intended.) Conveniently, the Pro-Line body didn't require any readjustment of the body mounts.
I have several other vehicles that run ProTrac-offset wheels, so I decided to get the ProTrac suspension kit for the Slash too. As with my other Traxxas vehicles, the shocks use the stock internals with factory-upgrade TiN-coated shafts, and the bodies are aluminum made by STRC. I can't emphasize enough just how much better the stock shocks work with the STRC aluminum bodies; they're smooth like butter now, and have been on every vehicle I've installed them on. The stock progressive-rate springs were replaced with linear springs from the Telluride, which uses the same rear springs as the 4Pede but softer front springs which better-suits the rear weight bias of the Slash. The hubs and caster blocks are stock, but if I have any problems with the stock ones, I have a set of RPM hubs and STRC aluminum caster blocks that I can install in the future. I could've installed them immediately, but I ran out of motivation after getting the Pro-Line body to fit, because that was my ultimate goal anyway.
The awful servo-mounted servo-saver was replaced with the bellcrank-integrated servo-saver, and the servo was replaced with a Hitec HS-7955TG, which is overkill for this truck but it's my favorite steering servo, and I'll never break it, not on this truck. Heck, the 7955TG in my Wraith has no servo saver at all, and titanium steering links, and it's been run completely underwater many times, and it still works perfectly. Why change a formula that works?
Because I'm using a non-Traxxas ESC, I had to make a flat plate to attach the ESC to. A spare chunk of Lexan, trimmed to the right size and painted black on the underside to hide dirt buildup, took care of that. The ESC is nothing special, a Dynamite DYNS2210 that I've used on many other brushed vehicles, but it's a good reliable unit and I've only ever had 1 out of 8 go bad.
That's right, I said it's a brushed ESC. Why? Well...
There was something I wanted to try. I've never seen a brushed short-course truck that wasn't anemic, so I decided to see if I could make one. This is a Holmes Hobbies TorqueMaster Pro 550 motor, with a custom-wound 11t armature, silver brushes, and endbell cooling fan added by Yours Truly to help the commutator deal with the heat buildup from the LiPo battery's massive amperage. Yep, I said it's a 550 motor. Maybe there used to be high-speed rebuildable 550 motors available back in the day, I dunno, but I couldn't find any when I went looking, so I got Holmes to make me one. It's a great motor, it moves this truck with no problem, and easily pops wheelies when the tires can get enough traction. (the Badlands SC tires are great off-road, but don't have much contacting surface to provide traction on pavement.)
The stock gearbox case is long gone, replaced with a RPM gearbox case. The internals are stock, with the exception of the diff cup, which is an O-ring sealed unit made by Fast Lane Machining, and is filled with 200k oil. It's a great diff cup, I recommend it to anyone who wishes their Slash had a sealed diff.
So there's my take on the truck that launched a whole new racing class back in the day. It makes a good companion for my Losi Baja Rey.
Check out "Fyrstormer's Garage" in the General RC forum.