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"Experienced user"
GRP - 7.08.15, 1:13 pm Post #11: | Reply With Quote
Nice build =)
Traxxas Slash 2wd
Mamba Max Pro l Castle 1415-2400kv l 4s 5000 mah
SmOkEy902's Avatar
"Experienced user"
SmOkEy902 - 7.08.15, 7:38 pm Post #12: | Reply With Quote
cant wait to see the finished product, please keep the updates coming
2wd Slash lightly modded....for now
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"Experienced user"
MachineMan12 - 7.09.15, 7:10 pm Post #13: | Reply With Quote
Thanks guys! I just finished reading through yours, GRP, that castle 1415 must have been a handful haha! I am considering a Neewer motor for mine since the Viper motor is basically blown from the sand that got in it on my initial run at the beach (more on this later) and Viper no longer supports that motor for repair in preparation for their new gen of motors.

Here are pics of the finishing touches on the roller...





I'm not sure why, but the RPM transmission case doesn't close completely on the bottom which you can see here. It fits snugly when placed on the Traxxas LCG chassis so I am assuming that it pulls the case together completely and won't be an issue. Still something to note.



Next came the RPM slash rear arms. Since they already have built in toe, I had to switch to the optional RPM gearbox A-arm mounts. You can also see the Traxxas rear carriers from the previous owner.







I had to trim a little bit off of the chassis to make the gearbox fit properly. Dremel with a sanding drum made this quick work.





Went ahead and installed the shock tower and body mount.



More to come!
(Previously Machine-_Man. Cannot retrieve old account)
Savage Flux -- Slash 2wd LCG -- RC18t
MachineMan12's Avatar
"Experienced user"
MachineMan12 - 7.11.15, 5:50 pm Post #14: | Reply With Quote
The bolt sticking out the top of the body mount is a camera mount for my action cam. I just drilled a hole through the aluminum and used a cube of scrap wood as a spacer so that the bolt head can clear the side of the aluminum, and the nut on top holds it all together. I Hope I can get some good footage once it's all together!

You can also see how the angle iron mounts to the shock tower better in these pics. I just used left over self tapping screws from my Savage to bolt them to the shock tower in the stock location, and then the SCTE body post bar bolts to the aluminum.







Now I can finally put the wheels on and officially call it a roller!!





(Last edited by MachineMan12 : 7.11.15 at 5:51 pm) Reason: Made the pictures bigger. Is this better??
(Previously Machine-_Man. Cannot retrieve old account)
Savage Flux -- Slash 2wd LCG -- RC18t
MachineMan12's Avatar
"Experienced user"
MachineMan12 - 7.26.15, 10:00 pm Post #15: | Reply With Quote
Drive Shafts.

Iím going with the slash 4x4 rear drive shafts because they have proven to be stronger than the stock 2wd drive shafts and my previous ones were MIPís for a rustler width rear end. If you are going to do this, beware that the stub axles are not the same. Here are the two different outdrives:

TRA2753X (Slash 2wd)
TRA6853X (Slash 4x4)

The reason Iím pointing this out is because of the big gap between the axle carrier and the rear hex.



I thought I could make my own shims from a plastic Du-Bro washer by sanding and turning down the diameter of a similar sized washer, but it was easier to just use the fiber washers TRA1985. It took two on the outside of the stub axle (between the hex and carrier), and one on the inside (between the carrier and output yoke). With this setup there is only the slightest play in the drive shafts, maybe too little. Only time will tell.

I also replaced the screw that holds the rear turnbuckle to the bearing carrier with a longer bolt and added a nut on the end. This easy mod would ensure that the screw never backs out.

(Previously Machine-_Man. Cannot retrieve old account)
Savage Flux -- Slash 2wd LCG -- RC18t
MachineMan12's Avatar
"Experienced user"
MachineMan12 - 7.27.15, 10:38 pm Post #16: | Reply With Quote
New Motor!

Since I had taken this truck to the beach as a basher before this whole transformation, the motor needed to be replaced. After driving at the beach, the motor got sand in it and scored the rotor and magnets (see pics). This Viper motor was great before and at the beach, but now itís damaged and I canít send it out to viper for a replacement.





Since I didnít want to blow wads of cash on a whole new system, I decided to keep the esc and just buy a new motor. Besides, I had already painted a Viper logo on the hood! I had been thinking of the castle 1410 motor but decided to try a new option: the Neewer 4300kv 4 pole motor.



I have heard good things about Neewer and wanted a cheap replacement for my old Viper. It is comparable to the Viper 3900kv motor, only a few mm shorter. Same sized motor shaft (1/8th) and of similar construction.





I decided to open it up and check out the internals. The rotor is balanced (Blue clay in pics) and much larger than the viper rotor. It checks out as a 4 pole system, four individual magnets.



The only thing that worried me was this strange brownish-red dust that was all over the rotor and in the can. What is this stuff?! I didnít think it was a lubricant, and it didnít have a funny blown-motor smell. Itís too fine to be rust. Should I be worried? Let me know what you guys think this could be.







So aside from the red dust, the motor looked great so I threw it back together and mounted it up. I went with different motor mount screws because I didnít want to keep stripping out the stock 1.5mm hex screws. So I looked for an alternative like Lunsfordís ďfat boyĒ motor mount screws. I went with Traxxasís TRA 4859 which are 10mm long with a 2.5mm hex. I just shortened them with a dremel cut-off wheel so that they wonít stick into the motor windings, even though the Neewer motor has a cardstock shield between the screw holes and the windings. No more stripped hex heads!

(Left to right: stock motor mount screw, shortened TRA4859, stock length TRA4859)



Unfortunately these screws cause gouging in the RPM motor mount plate caused by their shoulder underneath the screw head. This helps the screw bite into the stock plastic transmission case, but on the metal motor plate it can cause ruts. This makes it hard to have a precise gear mesh where a millimeters movement of the motor can cause disaster. So to counter this I just used TRA1985 fiber washers to cancel out that shoulder bump, two did the trick.

Gouge from stock motor mount screws:



Since the original viper motor had really long motor wires, I needed to make extensions for the Neewer motor. I think they turned out pretty cool, sheathed in black wire mesh.



Also got the rear bumper installed with the RPM bumper mount.



Thatís it for Now, let me know what you think! Comments/questions are welcome!
(Previously Machine-_Man. Cannot retrieve old account)
Savage Flux -- Slash 2wd LCG -- RC18t
"Experienced user"
wmharley - 7.28.15, 5:44 am Post #17: | Reply With Quote
so how does it drive with the new motor?

i have the same Viper system.
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"Experienced user"
marcobiagetti - 7.28.15, 12:36 pm Post #18: | Reply With Quote
that looks sweet! One of the coolest bulids iīve seen on this forum( and there are MANY great looking builds on the URC forum). But are you sure that it was worth to convert a rustler into a slash and not just buy a used slash xD
"New user"
B4warned - 8.09.15, 8:33 pm Post #19: | Reply With Quote
Cool build being new I am trying to gather as much info as I can
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"Certified Music Junkie"
JesterTheJoker - 8.13.15, 6:09 pm Post #20: | Reply With Quote
marcobiagetti said
that looks sweet! One of the coolest bulids iīve seen on this forum( and there are MANY great looking builds on the URC forum). But are you sure that it was worth to convert a rustler into a slash and not just buy a used slash xD
all in the fun of it! i converted a stampede to a slash, coasted me more than it did to him
"My garden is life itself, in the sense that every aspect of it should be taken care of and tended to as you would a rose, trimming off dead leaves and excess, being left with raw beauty, and perfection in my own mind. " - Jester
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