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theJANG - 3.16.11, 2:21 am Post #1: | Reply With Quote
After a bit of time away from the scene, I'm back to Tamiya builds with this 2010 re-release version of the Tyrrell P34 Six-Wheeler with 1976 Japan GP livery. Tamiya has offered two body styles of this vehicle on two different chassis in a number of limited releases. This is the second body style, on the second chassis, a variant of the F103.

As is not uncommon with Tamiya kits, the chassis will surely go together quickly. The many-piece body requires a lot of masking and detail work and will take some time.


NOTE: This thread is about the Tamiya P34 Six-Wheeler 2010 re-release. Please no discussion of other unrelated kits or builds. Feel free to create new threads to discuss other topics. Thanks!
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tamiyafier's Avatar
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tamiyafier - 3.16.11, 2:27 am Post #2: | Reply With Quote
Ahhh...great to see some more Tamiya builds. How did the 4 front wheels affect the handling?
"'You miss 100% of the shots you don't take.'- Wayne Gretzky"

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Suslov - 3.16.11, 3:06 am Post #3: | Reply With Quote
Wow ! first saw this car at first thought that this toy but it turned out that this car is the real basis ...
It was very interesting to read.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyrrell_P34
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theparadox2010 - 3.16.11, 3:34 am Post #4: | Reply With Quote
Its a very interesting car, and how the rest of the racing scene hated it.. Have fun with the build. Can't wait to see the progress.
Too much is never enough..

TL-01 x 2, FF-02, GrassHornet, Graupner, Lunchbox, Terra Conqueror x 2, Fighter Buggy RX, Ansmann Macnum, Colt 16, HSP Nitro, T Maxx, Radline Micro, Outrage Lazer Alpha (needs parts) ORV (needs parts) TB-03, and as of ten mins ago, a Losi xx.
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Dreadstar - 3.16.11, 10:45 am Post #5: | Reply With Quote
Jang,will you be doing it up as Jackie Stewarts 6-wheeled Tyrell?
Maverick Strada SC Evo c/w Inix 60A esc & 3200kv 4 pole SKYRC Toro motor
Kyosho Inferno US Sport c/w RB WS7 III with 2047 pipe
HB Lightning Pro 2 Truggy c/w Go .21 5-port with a JP-2 pipe
Arrma Fury ; 5 Mardave 1/12th scale on-roads
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symbol24 - 3.16.11, 12:54 pm Post #6: | Reply With Quote
Nice car, hope you like it too ^^
Losi Micro SCT General Lee
Tamiya TA02 Castrol Celica, TT01ES Niassn Skyllin, TA05 ver.2 Mitsubishi Eclipse, M05 Mini Cooper Racing
Traxxas Rally VXL, Summit VXL, Stampede 4x4 VXL

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theJANG - 3.18.11, 7:38 pm Post #7: | Reply With Quote
Alright, here we go with the usual picture follow-alongs.
  1. Front steering setup. The two spindles on each side are connected with straight links and turn the same amount. The servo will be attached just to one end and the longitudinal links take care of the rest. There's a tiny bit of pan car spring suspension in each kingpin.
  2. Motor pod plate and battery area.
  3. Motor pod assembled.
  4. Main chassis and upper deck assembled. Construction of pan chassis cars is so different from most of what I'm used to. Even though I've done a number of these, they still always seem foreign and unfamiliar.
  5. Motor and rear axle installed. I also hooked up the rear suspension. That isn't a monoshock, it's just a spring holder. The round plate has a twin on the underside and they are both spring-loaded. They're called friction discs, or you can call the whole assembly a friction damper.
  6. Forward frame and Kydex bumper plate attached.
  7. Electronics installed. Wiring gets a bit cramped and the space for the ESC is absurdly small. Half of it hangs off the chassis even though the Futaba MC230CR is a fairly small unit. Not sure why they did that to us.
  8. Another view of the current state showing how the wiring goes and how the completed steering setup is connected. The servo is attached to the chassis with just double-sided tape. Because it's off-center and the chassis is narrow there, part of the servo hangs off the side.
Tips:
  1. In step 9, try to minimize the side to side play in the shaft before you tighten down the last grub screw. Don't squish the hex adapters down as tightly as possible, just give an absolute minimal gap to the inside so they don't quite ride on the bearings.
  2. In step 11, I assembled the unit with Tamiya Medium Friction Damper Grease. Smooths the motion out a lot and makes it consistent by virtually eliminating stiction.
  3. In step 17, apply the tape to the chassis, then snap on the ball ends before you push the servo down onto it, to help you get a feel for how it will all line up. Pay attention to the diagram at the upper left showing how far forward the servo goes, and how the spline must be aligned with the centerline of the chassis.
  4. In step 18, be sure to use that recommended bit of double-sided tape between the ESC and the front of the battery tray. A piece on the chassis floor really isn't enough.
Next up, wheels & tires, then the diff.
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Please do not PM (privately message) me or directly address forum threads towards me with questions that can be answered by many other fellow members. Please utilize the tremendous resource that is the entire URC community. Thank you for your understanding.
tamiyafier's Avatar
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tamiyafier - 3.18.11, 8:14 pm Post #8: | Reply With Quote
Is this one going to be run? Looks like an interesting car.
"'You miss 100% of the shots you don't take.'- Wayne Gretzky"

-Michael Scott
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Dreadstar - 3.19.11, 12:53 am Post #9: | Reply With Quote
If you need some photos of the real car,let me know,as it's in a museum here in Glasgow,if you're wanting to super detail it Jang.
Maverick Strada SC Evo c/w Inix 60A esc & 3200kv 4 pole SKYRC Toro motor
Kyosho Inferno US Sport c/w RB WS7 III with 2047 pipe
HB Lightning Pro 2 Truggy c/w Go .21 5-port with a JP-2 pipe
Arrma Fury ; 5 Mardave 1/12th scale on-roads
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theJANG - 3.20.11, 11:27 pm Post #10: | Reply With Quote
Wow Dreadstar, thanks kindly, that's amazing. Like all of my Ultimate Tamiya "homage" builds though, I'm just going to do this one as close to Tamiya manual specs as possible!

The chassis is now complete and she's driveable. What's funny is that the instructions for building the chassis finish on the centerfold of the manual! Now follow five fairly dense pages of body cutting, detailing, and assembly instructions! Doh!

Tips:
  • Pay very close attention to the holes in the spur gear for the diff balls. On one side there are two little molded stoppers to keep the balls from coming out that side. Insert the balls from the other side, or it will be exceessively difficult.
  • I didn't research whether this is a consistent issue, but my kit came with foam inserts for sedan wheels. Completely useless for these big F1 tires. I don't have any tips for working around that Get new foams or run none.
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(Last edited by theJANG : 3.20.11 at 11:30 pm)
Please do not PM (privately message) me or directly address forum threads towards me with questions that can be answered by many other fellow members. Please utilize the tremendous resource that is the entire URC community. Thank you for your understanding.
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