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Evil genius jr.'s Avatar
"Experienced user"
Evil genius jr. - 7.26.11, 2:43 pm Post #1: | Reply With Quote
/* EDIT UPDATED VERSION http://slash5803.wordpress.com/2012/...galore-part-1/
Thanks tachikoma1373!
*/


I though I'd compile a list of what manufacturer to use on what parts and why. I think this would be helpful for a newbie because even though this stuff is all over the web there is no complete list. Some parts I will need your input so if you had a bad/good experience please post. Not all of these are personal experience because to buy every part on the list would be very expensive. If this thread gets good enough maybe we could get Jang to sticky it. So here we go.

This is not a must upgrade list, it is a list of what to use if you want to upgrade.

Bumpers:
For both the front and rear RPM is the way to go. Whatever you do avoid metal bumpers at all costs. One good hit and you have a bent bumper.

The stock bumper in the front has a support attaching it to the bulkhead, when the bumper is hit some force is transmitted to the bulkhead, sometimes breaking it. the RPM does away with this support making bulkhead breakages less likely.Plus is RPM's plastic.

I'm not sure what upgrades RPM's rear bumper offers except looks, mudflap mounts, and light mounts. Could someone please chime in on this?

RPM Front Bumper

RPM Rear Bumper

Bulkhead:
STRC and FLM are good, the venom one has a 3-piece design that makes it not as strong as the others.

If you have a RPM Front bumper aluminum bulkheads are not necessary, they do look good and add some strength and weight to the front.

STRC Front Bulkhead
FLM Front Bulkhead

A-Arms:
I would definitely recommend the Pro-Trac kit, It as stronger than stock and improves handling a-ton. If for some reason you dont want the Pro-Trac kit RPM's arms are nearly indestructible. Do not use metal. It will bend becoming unusable.

ProTrac kit
RPM Rear and Front

Castor Blocks:
Metal is the way to go here, pretty much any manufacturer is good. Whatever you do , don't buy RPM here it flexes to much and beds your kingpin. The best is STRC or Traxxas.
STRC Castor Blocks


Carriers:
Metal is the best here but RPM is also good, the Pro-Trac kit includes some that are pretty good.

RPM Front and Rear Carriers
STRC Front and Rear Carriers

Towers:
The Pro-Trac kit includes these also if you go that route. If not RPM is the best but you can use metal if you want.

RPM Front and Rear Towers
STRC Front and Rear Towers

Skid Plates:
For the front go RPM because it eliminates the bell-crank popping out.
For the back the Pro-Line one is the best because it integrates the rear bumper mount and skid plate into one solid piece.

RPM Front Skid
Pro-Line Rear Skid
at the time of this edit the proline rear skid is non longer available.

Transmission Case:
Metal is the best here because it will wick away motor heat. FLM is the highest quality but most of the others are good too.

FLM Transmission Case

Drive-shafts:
The stock Slash 4x4 rear shafts are very good but if you want CVDs the MIP and STRC ones are good. Whatever you do dont buy integy or venom. They are too long and destroy the diff.

Slash 4x4 DriveShafts

Bell-Cranks:
Metal is very good here, Pro-Line makes an upgrade unit that includes the servo saver built in, but it is a little pricey. The stock slash 4x4 one also works.

Hinge-Pins:
Either Lunsford or STRC for these.
STRC Hingepins
Lunsford Hingepins


Shocks:

Well my opinion is that the Stock shocks with new springs, aluminum caps, and Ti-ni shafts. But if you do want better shocks Pro-Line Power Strokes are very good and the Big Bores are decent. Now if your completely insane (you know who you are )
you could put 1/8th scale shock on. Doc has a tutorial stickied for it.

Drive-Train:
The stock drive-train is pretty good but to make it even better you could get the STRC Layshaft with the Associated Slipper and 32P gears. You should also seal your diff using Doc I's tutorial which is stickied. If you dont want to seal your diff you can buy the FLM sealed diff for $60.

STRC Layshaft

Random Stuff:
Proline chassis saver. This completely eliminates the week point in the chassis saving you from breaking them.

Pro-Line Chassis saver


That should cover most of it, I'll leave the electronics for someone else. If I left anything out please let me know and I'll edit the post. Hope this helps someone.
(Last edited by Evil genius jr. : 11.25.12 at 7:17 am) Reason: Added links
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Evil genius jr.'s Avatar
"Experienced user"
Evil genius jr. - 7.26.11, 3:38 pm Post #2: | Reply With Quote
Also any TRX aluminum part is good.
(Last edited by Evil genius jr. : 7.27.11 at 12:10 pm)
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indy34096's Avatar
"Shake n' Bake"
indy34096 - 7.26.11, 4:40 pm Post #3: | Reply With Quote
this is a little upgrade sheet i made for my slash:
Click image for larger version

Name:	slash upgrade sheet.png
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Size:	51.4 KB
ID:	26334
note that this is my setup, anyone elses may be different.

i disagree with having aluminum for much of anything except the bulkheads. it seems to do nothing but add unecessary weight :|
Associated B4.1 FT, Associated RC10 Classic, ProBoat Impulse 26
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Evil genius jr.'s Avatar
"Experienced user"
Evil genius jr. - 7.26.11, 4:51 pm Post #4: | Reply With Quote
That's nice, I wish mine was like that or even the above one but mine is mostly stock except for the protrac kit.

Aluminum for the Castor blocks is almost mandatory unless you want to keep bending kingpins. Every thing else is just optional, the only bling bling part would be the shock towers.
Brushlesshobbies.com
DESC410
"Experienced user"
rooster626 - 7.26.11, 5:45 pm Post #5: | Reply With Quote
heres how mines set up http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=127046

pretty close to having all you listed
NITROREDNECK's Avatar
"Experienced user"
NITROREDNECK - 7.28.11, 2:23 pm Post #6: | Reply With Quote
cool thanks
Gimpdiggity's Avatar
"Valiant Poultry"
Gimpdiggity - 8.03.11, 3:35 am Post #7: | Reply With Quote
When you say that the transmission should be upgraded, what exactly do you mean??

I was under the impression that the Slash had metal gears inside it already. What other parts of the transmission would I want to upgrade??

Sorry if this is a dumb question...I'm new to all of this, and just bought my Slash today. Should be here next week I hope.
In Life, Try to be the Kind of Person Your Dog Thinks You Are...
Torment, Boost, C4rcu4t, Bullhead, Summit, Telluride, Trail Trekker, Night Vapor, UM T-28, Archer, Firebird Stratos, Duet, Tidewater, DJI Phantom, Nano QX, Proto X Nano, Scout CX, Power Vee, Bristol Bay, Duck, Volere
Evil genius jr.'s Avatar
"Experienced user"
Evil genius jr. - 8.03.11, 3:37 am Post #8: | Reply With Quote
Soryy, I will edit the post. Wasnt clear.
You are right the transmission does have metal gears. I meant the transmission case.
Like http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXCE8&P=7
Orhttp://www.fastlanemachine.net/proddetail.php?prod=FLM20000&cat=17
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Gimpdiggity's Avatar
"Valiant Poultry"
Gimpdiggity - 8.03.11, 3:45 am Post #9: | Reply With Quote
Okay cool, I get it.

Because it's metal, it will help dissipate heat that is transferred from the motor better than any plastic parts would.

Basically it's like creating a giant heat sink out of the entire transmission.

Thanks!
In Life, Try to be the Kind of Person Your Dog Thinks You Are...
Torment, Boost, C4rcu4t, Bullhead, Summit, Telluride, Trail Trekker, Night Vapor, UM T-28, Archer, Firebird Stratos, Duet, Tidewater, DJI Phantom, Nano QX, Proto X Nano, Scout CX, Power Vee, Bristol Bay, Duck, Volere
Gimpdiggity's Avatar
"Valiant Poultry"
Gimpdiggity - 8.03.11, 3:47 am Post #10: | Reply With Quote
Man, I think that this Slash is going to be a MAJOR money sink.

I have already found so many things that I want for it...it's ridiculous.
In Life, Try to be the Kind of Person Your Dog Thinks You Are...
Torment, Boost, C4rcu4t, Bullhead, Summit, Telluride, Trail Trekker, Night Vapor, UM T-28, Archer, Firebird Stratos, Duet, Tidewater, DJI Phantom, Nano QX, Proto X Nano, Scout CX, Power Vee, Bristol Bay, Duck, Volere
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