no need to race out and buy a brushless system when the stock non rebuild-able motors go boom

theres a number of motors that will fit with little or no modification to the motor mounting plate and run off your stock traxxas evx-2 esc

on option is johnson motors - very similar to the stock mabuchi motors shipped in erevo/summit

theres a few places u can buy their motors in australia (http://www.johnsonelectric.com/Sales...elocations_pi1[location]=AU&tx_dysworldwidelocations_pi1[type]=sales&tx_dysworldwidelocations_pi1[filterByBrand]=)


this motor will bolt straight in to a traxxas summit (http://www.johnsonelectric.com/media...IdProduct=1308) its a DC781(2)LSG-011

another direct bolt in replacment (http://www.johnsonelectric.com/media...IdProduct=1261) a HC785P-011

another direct bolt in replacement (http://www.johnsonelectric.com/media...IdProduct=1263) HC785LP-011

another direct replacement a HC785LP-012 (http://www.johnsonelectric.com/media...IdProduct=1264)

probably the best of the brushed motors to buy for the summit/erevo is a 14.4 volt dewalt motor from a dewalt battery drill

these are the ones i have.bought 2 of these delivered to my door in Australia for about $100. considering my local dewalt store in town wanted $150 for just *ONE* motor i was over the moon

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/prod...396505-21.html

theres a good thread at traxxas forums that tells how its done to prep the motor.
http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=500182

i will copy/paste it here just for speed and clarity of what im currently writing

DeWalt Conversion
A few people have asked me how I did my conversion. If you can solder, the mod is fairly painless. It’s also cheap. The whole thing probably cost about $75. If you keep the dual mount plate and tape the hole and skip some of the other stuff, you could probably get it done for less than $35. Here’s a thread with my truck: http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=492844. Also, there are many other links in the forum with pictures and other ideas on this conversion. This is just how I did it.

Supplies
6” - Black 12ga wire (motor to ESC)
6” - Red 12ga wire (motor to ESC)
4ea - Male bullet connectors
3ea - 100nF Capacitors
1 - Rear motor mount; TRX p/n: 5660
1 - Single motor mount plate; TRX p/n: 5690X
1 - Single gear cover; TRX p/n: 5677X
1 - Spacer (fabricated)
2 - Motor to motor mount screws; 4mm countersunk head
1 - DeWalt motor; p/n: 396505-20
2 - Replacement brushes; p/n: 493511-00
1 - RRP pinion; 18t (w/ 5mm hole - stock pinions won’t work on the DeWalt)
1 - Spur gear, 62t; TRX p/n: 3959
Heat transfer compound
Semi-gloss black testers model paint
Shrink tube


Procedure
1. Remove the brushes from the motor; solder on the power wires. I used solid brass bullets from my LHS. They plug right into the Traxxas ones. As for the wires, I used (2) 3” wires for each side. I used el cheapo bulk wire from Lowes, not very flexible but its sufficient.
2. Remove the pinion gear from the DeWalt. Be careful not to bend the shaft. I scored the gear between 2 teeth with a dremel cut off desk (also score the gear on the opposite side). Then while firmly supporting the gear on an anvil, I hit a chisel placed between the teeth on one of the score marks. The pinion cracked in half.
3. Slightly flatten 1 side of the motor shaft for the pinion set grub screw. Dremel it, then smooth with a file. Don’t install the new pinion yet. Be sure to blow all of the debris out of the motor.
4. Solder the caps to the motor as follows (you will need a powerful iron to heat the tabs enough or the caps will pop off every time you crash):
a. [1] Positive terminal to motor can
b. [2] Negative terminal to motor can
c. [3] Positive terminal to Negative terminal
5. Paint the motor black. Not sure if it really helps, but there are arguments that the black paint helps to dissipate heat. Regardless, it looks better anyways. I also painted the motor mount & spacer (detailed below). Also, some argue that you should run the motor in a cup of water to break it in. I broke mine in at full throttle on the street. Works great!
6. Reinstall the brushes w/ power wires.
7. Enlarge the holes on the motor mount. I filled the original holes all in with JB weld. After letting it cure overnight, I smoothed out the inside surface for a clean look then drilled & countersunk new mount holes to perfectly align with the oversized motor.
8. To get the pinion to fully line up with the spur you may have to make a spacer. The spacer fits between the mount and the motor. I used a 1/8” piece of aluminum. You’ll have to notch the spacer so the tabs on the motor can don’t interfere. I put the heat transfer compound (computer supply store) on both sides of the spacer. May not be necessary, but oh well.
9. Assemble the motor/spacer/motor mount; use the 4mm countersunk screws. I had to do this at the counter of my LHS so I could get the best grip length. Now, install the pinion. Some people have not had to use the spacer. You may be able to just put the pinion on backwards. Wouldn’t line up for me that way. Do what you have to do.
10. You may have to assembly everything in step 9 a few times to get the gears to align (including adjusting pinion spacing on the motor shaft & varying the thickness of the spacer).
11. Install the new motor mount plate on the gearbox (you’ll have to remove the gearbox)
12. Install the new motor setup & new gear cover.
13. Plug everything in, install batts & bash.
14. Note - the gearing I used, 18/62, is a good mix between speed & acceleration. Also, I’m using 16.8v NiMH, not lipo.
15. Here’s a few I referenced (and thanks to the authors):
a. http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=478448
b. http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...installat ion (http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...t+installation)
c. http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ghlight=smoked (http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...ghlight=smoked)


Parts
DeWalt motor p/n # 396505-20 (I actually bought mine from a local DeWalt repair center + they gave me some stickers to go with it)
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...n=&p op=flush (http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...ken=&pop=flush)
Brushes p/n # 603754-01
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...n=&p op=flush (http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...ken=&pop=flush)
Caps
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062365 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062365)

Note the brushes are in case you need replacements. I’ve abused this motor for several months now with no problems and I’ve never replaced them. And to save a few bucks, you could reuse the caps & wires from the titans.

===================================

another interesting bit from the same thread

kershaw design 700 HO (MABUCHI A09) puts out 300 watts, while the titan 775 (same Mabuchi motor just a step down version, without the timing and 1 winding difference) puts out a little less power than that.

14.4 volt drill and motor geared for 1,800 rpm (approx max rpm ): 325 watts

http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...roductID=20763 (http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...roductID=20763)

12 volt drill and motor geared for 1,800 rpm : 285 watts

http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...roductID=20767 (http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...roductID=20767)

18 volt drill and motor gered for 2,000 rpm : 450 watts

http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...roductID=23057 (http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...roductID=23057)

(I try to always debate with facts). Of course you could increase the voltage, change the gearing and get more power out of it (dewalt motors are known for there ability to be over volted) but these are the most reliable figures direct from Dewalt (well as reliable as a supply vendor can be) http://monster.traxxas.com/images/smilies/dry.gif .

But I agree these Dewalt motors feel increadible torquey - I have had my dewalt powered summit loose control and blast off across my bed (I caught it just before it smacked the wall) though it was not as powerful as my erbe, it literally was tearing up my sheets and covers

===================================

another extremely good thread on the dewalt conversion with great photos (http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=459100)

all in all this is an amazing brushed motor running nimh 8 cells this thing will wheelie even at low voltages. i had to offset the motor from the motor mount with 5 1mm washers. because it is mounted so far back i made a new hole in the motor mount so i could take advantage of all 3 possible 3mm screws to mount the motor. this is an amazing cool running motor. the brushes are $3.00 (it has replaceable brushes which is an amazing thing in it self for a drill motor. im running 13t/ 52t 1mod teeth. here are some pics hope you enjoy
===================================

more interesting reading (http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=457269)
The 12v dewalt motor is very strong and can easily take the higher voltages. I have ran it on 13,14,15,16, and 17 cell nimh, and it worked fine. It starts getting a little too hot with 17 cells after about 10 minutes, which I still think is very impressive. 13-16 cells can be run without any worries. I generally run on 14 and 15 cells, I just tried the others to try and push it to its limits. So far I have 49 runs on the new style motor and I am still using the original brushes.

I had 81 runs on the old style motor before I had to replace the brushes, and 12 runs with a new set. The motor still works fine, but I like to run with the new style motor because it has more power.

After running the motor so much I have come to the conclusion that the Dewalt motor is just a better setup than the 700-HO. It is much more reliable and has some pretty insane power.

Hope this helps you out.
===================================
I spoke to another Dewalt centre today, and they confirmed that these motors come from about the beefiest cordless drills that Dewalt do, and it looks like
579724-03 = replacement for 396505-20 = 12v motor
579724-04 = replacement for 396505-21 = 14.4v motor
579724-05 = replacement for 396505-20 = 18v motor
===================================
I had to open out mounting holes a bit and the DeWalt motor has 4mm tapped holes, original motors use 3mm. The motor also needed a spacer of about 3mm between it and the motor housing to allow the pinion to line up with the spur. I had to solder a couple of capacitors to the motor as well to stop glitching using stock radio.

Runs well on 2 4S lipos in parallel.
===================================


you can replace the brushes as well in the 12v, 14.4, and 18v dewalt motors, the brushes are all the same, the part number you want is

brushes part 603754-01

dont run the 18v motor with the stock evx-2 esc, under volted and a snail is faster

theres more good info on the dewalt motors here

http://www.wa4dsy.net/robot/dewalt-drill-motor


i also wrote and documented my own prep of the dewalt motors and created a pdf here

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3...144vdewalt.pdf

more info in this thread here

http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?p=975980

dewalt tools that use the 14.4v motor

DC983KA Type 1 14.4V DRILL/DRIVER
DC984KA Type 1 14.4V HAMMERDRILL
DC984KA-AR Type 1 14.4V HMRDR/DRILL
DC984KA-B2 Type 1 14.4V HMRDR/DRILL
DC984KA-BR Type 1 14.4V HAMMERDRILL
DC984VA Type 1 DRILL/DRIVER
DC985KA Type 1 HAMMER DRILL
DC985VA Type 1 HAMMER DRILL
DCD939KX Type 1 14.4V HMRDR/DRILL/DRIVER
DCD939VX Type 1 14.4V HMRDR/DRILL/DRIVER
DW983K-2 Type 1 14.4V ADJ CLTCH DRILL/DRI
DW984K-2 Type 1 14.4V HAMMERDRILL/DRILL/D
DW984KV-2 Type 1 14.4V HAMMERDRILL KIT
DW985K-2 Type 1 14.4V HAMMERDRILL/DRILL/D
DW985KV-2 Type 1 14.4V HAMMERDRILL KIT W/


dewalt tools that use the 12v motor

DC980KA Type 1 12V DRILL / DRIVER
DW980K-2 Type 1 12 VOLT DRILL/DRIVER KIT

extra info here
http://rc-monster.biz/forum/showpost...8&postcount=39
(copy/pasted for prosperity)
Hi guys, I have have a dewalt 12 volt xrp motor in my summit with a Castle Mamba Max esc running a 4s 6000 45c battery arrangement. I started with a 14.4 volt Dewalt motor out of a new drill I have had for about 9 years. I ran an 18 tooth pinion with the 68 tooth spur gear, I then bought a 12 volt motor and installed it with a 16 tooth pinion running the same spur. I am very happy with both setups. The 12 volt gives me a little more acceleration and a little more top end but the gear noise is much higher with the smaller pinion. I can bash around till I get tired of driving (about 30 min) and put in about 2500 mah back into the batteries. The motor temp is fine (for a Dewalt) I can just hold my hand on it for about 5 seconds. The esc hardly gets warm,(the only way I could get the fan to come on was to climb my legs at a really steep angle in second gear for about twenty minutes) and the batteries are just a couple of degrees hotter than ambient temp. I also bought an 18 volt dewalt motor and I am going to try it on 6 cell lipo as well as the 14.4 volt motor on 6 cell lipo. I noticed that even though I am on 2.4ghz, my radio range was reduced to less than 1/3 when I didn't use the noise suppression capaciters on the dewalt motors, so needless to say I installed a pair of .1uf ceramic caps. onto the motor and my range returned to what it was when I had the stock Titan motor installed. I learned another thing about these Dewalt motors, the older new styles have a rear bushing and are single wound and the latest style has a rear ball bearing and is double wound. I put a drop of locktight on the rear bearing housing to lock the bearing in place because the outer race was spinning slowly in the bore of the rear housing when I was breaking in the motor. (this was a new motor). I am having an issue with the Castle esc. In brushed mode, the esc goes right to reverse instead of breaking first if you coast for more than about 1 second. I tried different settings and it is still the same. I installed the esc in my brushless e-revo and it was fine, so it appears that it only has a problem in brushed mode. I called Castle Creations and spoke to their techs and they said it sounds like a software issue, so I am waiting for them to get back to me with a software solution for the braking issue. (Nothing like coasting a second on asphalt in second gear after winning a race and then touching the brake and watching your Brand new Summit do an endo onto its roof and slide down the road!) Well I broke in the body anyway!





well i think you will find this is the most in depth and comprehensive post on any forum on the Internet currently available with dewalt info for the summit/erevo

hope this helps someone


(19/1/2012)
something else i needed to add to this was how to find out the BEC side of your stock EVX-2 esc. copied/paste from traxxas summit faq

you will need to know what side the BEC is on you you can run a external lipo cut off.you will want to do this cos the dewalt motor will suck the life out of your nimh batteries like theres no tomorow


(http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post4600322)

2. EVX2 speed controller
________________________
This is Traxxas's second iteration of the EVX electronic speed controller (esc), with the main upgrade being the increased voltage handling. The original boasted 14.4 volts and was a Novak design, the EVX2 has a power rating of 16.8 volt, is waterproof and still retains the easy 3 mode programming features of the original, (sport mode, race mode (no reverse), and 50% power training mode). Many accounts have been made regarding the EVX2 and it’s waterproof ability. Personal experience, the esc is waterproof to a degree.
Like many others after a long bout with water I somehow lost the ability to go into reverse. Luckily the next day once the esc dried out reverse returned, but this is not always guaranteed. The EVX is also capable of handling lipo (lithium) batteries. BUT BE WARNED repeat BE WARNED although the esc can handle lipo batteries there is no internal low voltage cut off within the esc. In other words the esc will literally drain your lipo batteries to death (which is usually somewhere below 3.0 volts per cell). So use of lipo batteries is suggested only with a low voltage alarm (LVA) or a low voltage cut-off (LVC) both of these items are fairly cheap, should be considered requirements with lipo batteries and are discussed in a later section. The EVX2 is wired internally in series and can handle a 7.4 volt (2s) lipo on either plug (for a total of 4s). With extreme care it can also handle up to 5s if the batteries are attached as a 2s battery connected to the BEC (battery elimination circuit), and the 3s battery connected to the NON BEC side.

To determine your BEC side/plug follow this procedure:
with the esc off and all batteries unplugged
____________________________________________
1. Connect your 2s lipo battery to one plug
2. Turn on the esc - watch the light closely
3. If the green light flashes on briefly then this is your BEC side.
the other connection should be your NON BEC side
I suggest testing the other side with a 2s lipo battery as well to be certain.
Usually the BEC side will have the red tag attached to it. If it does not then attach something to it now to identify your BEC side in the future. Never connect a 3s lipo to the BEC side. To reiterate, to use 5s lipo, attach the 2s to the BEC side and the 3s to the non BEC side only. Of course this is not supported by Traxxas so use cautiously and at your trucks peril. But personally I can tell you it does work, will add 5-10 mph to your top speed and will lead to an early death to your stock motor due to heat and excessive speed, works much better with a DeWalt motor.

+++ Note: When using a 3s lipo with a 2s lipo both lipos should be of the same mah, same discharge rating or "C" rating, both should have an equal charge and both lipo batteries should be of the same name brand (each manufactures batteries have slightly different specs no matter what they advertise, so the more identical the batteries the better).
You have been warned. But if you USE COMMON SENSE the dangers will be minimized Before using lipo batteries read the lipo section further down in the post for further precautions.

Nice!Great post mate

Very good post but I'm sticking to brushless .

Yeah

thanks.

cool, if you have a traxxas evx-2 esc you dont want, im happy to give you my address so you can ship it my way

I don't have any brushed stuff except a xl-5 w/lvc and a titan 12t that are in a plastic bag. I built my maxx from parts and I skipped right over brushed stuff and went right for the HK 150 esc and a castle 2200kv motor and very happy with that setup.

a quick update, there is a new part number for *BOTH* brushes in the 12, 14.4, 18v motors

part number is

493511-00

if you want to run an external lipo cut off (LVC) in your erevo with dewalt, read this thread

http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=128557

Also, for those of you wondering if you need to run the caps (capacitors) on the dewalt motor to cut out interference , the answer to this is * ABSOLUTELY* yes

brushed motors will spew out all kinds of radio interference and it will affect your radio performance *EVEN IF YOUR USING 2.4Ghz*,

not only that but every where you drive your "little toy car" you will be spewing radio interference every where you drive including in to other frequencies of other rc users around the vehicle too.

so, be polite to other users of the radio spectrum and whack in some caps on the motor. make sure you have a decent sized soldering iron in the first place, say 60 watt and solder the caps on to the can and your all good to go.

if you click on my user name on the left side, under it is an "about me" look in there and i have uploaded some photos/pdf files to help you out as well



Info on lipos
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=115264

Info on Chargers
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=115188


heres a pdf i wrote on how to prep the dewalt motors
http://www.ultimaterc.com/gallery/di...os=6&uid=47728

erevo faq
http://www.ultimaterc.com/gallery/di...at=57728&pos=0

summit faq
http://www.ultimaterc.com/gallery/di...at=57728&pos=1


i also have found by adding a capacitor to the input on the evx-2 esc you can decrease your temp of it as well with dewalt fitted

http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho....php?p=1286134
lipos that fit erevo
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=132909


i have been and done some hunting for a alternative to the traxxas evx-2 and i found a "torquemaster br-xl" by Holmes Hobbies. you can order it waterproofed and it is very popular with the crawler community as well.it will drive the dewalt motor with ease

http://holmeshobbies.com/product.php?productid=274


The TorqueMaster BR-XL is a whole new ESC for crawlers. It has been designed from scratch to meet the rigorous demands of low speed control and high speed power. 5 amp 6 volt on board switchmode BEC delivers unbelievable servo power at any input voltage. Huge 80 amp continuous rating. Most impressive is the 6s lipo maximum input voltage, giving even the most power hungry drivers what they want.

Comes stock with Auto lipo LVC, Full drag brake, instant reverse, and 100% reverse throttle settings.

1 year warranty
Water resistant design
2s to 6s lipo input
onboard 6v 5a switchmode BEC
50x39x21mm
45.6 grams (with battery and motor wires)
Brushed only
80a continuous, no single 540 motor limit


Reverse and brake adjustment
Regenerative Drag Brake
Active Hold Brake (The Holmes Hold!)
Quiet mode


Dual motor crawlers, go fast racers, wheel speed trail junkies, pullin mofo's, robot builders, and any brushed fanatic will love it!


Super easy Stick programming. Fully Computer programmable via Castle Creations Castle Link with instant firmware upgrades!

[QUOTEAlso, for those of you wondering if you need to run the caps (capacitors) on the dewalt motor to cut out interference , the answer to this is * ABSOLUTELY* yes

brushed motors will spew out all kinds of radio interference and it will affect your radio performance *EVEN IF YOUR USING 2.4Ghz*,

not only that but every where you drive your "little toy car" you will be spewing radio interference every where you drive including in to other frequencies of other rc users around the vehicle too.

so, be polite to other users of the radio spectrum and whack in some caps on the motor. make sure you have a decent sized soldering iron in the first place, say 60 watt and solder the caps on to the can and your all good to go.

if you click on my user name on the left side, under it is an "about me" look in there and i have uploaded some photos/pdf files to help you out as well ][/quote]



Thanks stinger.... i have the 2.4 and have no glitching,BUT i never even thought about that aspect of it.I will throw some caps back on.,was running the am with the dewalt. When i broke a cap ...Range what range.It became possessed