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"Experienced user"
Zeenmuch90 - 11.27.11, 6:37 am Post #1: | Reply With Quote
Well the initial quality and performance of this truck has really impressed me, but I am super new to RC, the last RC I had was a pretty quick radio shack porsche gt1 unit I had in the late 90s that my parents gave me for Christmas

That being said, I have run the truck twice. One full first battery time, and then this second time for about 10 minutes until I had a failure. I figured I would post up here see if you pro's had any insight as to what could have failed. Basically I was ripping around in some low grass and the truck just stopped turning its wheels. You can put it on pavement, and it will run, but act as though something is just slipping and its not getting 100% motor power to the wheels. The failure IMO is somewhere in the differentials, as the center AWD shaft spins quite vigorously. When power is applied and you hold the car, it wont go, the center shaft spins like crazy and you feel a little tug, but not full power applied.

I wish it where a weekday so I could call HPI, because I dont want to tear into the car and have them say, "oh just send it back we will fix it" so I just have to wait while there is 65* weather and sun and I cant play with my new RC toy I was/am so excited about

Guess I will have to go rip it up on the 2 wheeled real vehicle a bit to get my fix oh well

Any help is greatly appreciated.
achuyman's Avatar
"Experienced user"
achuyman - 11.27.11, 2:49 pm Post #2: | Reply With Quote
you ball differentials are loose you need to take them out and tight them
Driver86's Avatar
"Retired racer. Old guy."
Driver86 - 11.28.11, 11:58 am Post #3: | Reply With Quote
Try tightening the slipper. It may just be a loose slipper.
I officially have too many vehicles to fit in this sig.
Brands I own: Associated, Duratrax, Exceed, Losi, RedCat, Silverlit, Syma, Tamiya, Tomy, Traxxas, Turnigy, Xmods and several generics
User Unrelated's Avatar
"A little bit of everything"
User Unrelated - 11.28.11, 12:11 pm Post #4: | Reply With Quote
I don't think it would be the slipper if the center driveshaft is spinning but the wheels aren't.
I think too that it is the ball diffs, which is quite unfortunate, because you have to sake the truck quite a ways apart to get to them.
Plus, be careful if you do get to tightening them, because if you over-tighten them, you can break them!
"So I says to the guy: 'What good is yous' offer to me if I ain't got no virgins to sacrifice?!'
and den he jus' sorta looked at me all blank-like for a second, an' jus flew away."
"Experienced user"
Zeenmuch90 - 12.01.11, 2:00 pm Post #5: | Reply With Quote
I called HPI and they want me to send it back to them, so I will do that, and see what they say. Do the ball differentials need to be adjusted as you run this little truck as preventative maintenance?
Driver86's Avatar
"Retired racer. Old guy."
Driver86 - 12.02.11, 4:31 am Post #6: | Reply With Quote
Zeenmuch90 said
I called HPI and they want me to send it back to them, so I will do that, and see what they say. Do the ball differentials need to be adjusted as you run this little truck as preventative maintenance?
Yes but it shouldn't need it so soon unless you were really rough on it
I officially have too many vehicles to fit in this sig.
Brands I own: Associated, Duratrax, Exceed, Losi, RedCat, Silverlit, Syma, Tamiya, Tomy, Traxxas, Turnigy, Xmods and several generics
"Experienced user"
Zeenmuch90 - 12.02.11, 8:10 am Post #7: | Reply With Quote
Thats what I figured. I hope they fix it and I can run the crap out of it. I wonder if there would be an upgrade for those diffs. I figure that will be the weak point in that little truck

I may pick something up this weekend to hold me over. I like the HSP Knight but the hobby shop I frequent doesnt have them. I think they have Losi Mini T's there though.
"Experienced user"
stw9495 - 12.02.11, 9:37 am Post #8: | Reply With Quote
I hate to be blunt in expressing my opinion, but ball differentials SUCK for any kind of running other than racing. They're finicky, they slip, and they'll burn out on you if you don't watch them. Granted, they're amazing for racing, the adjust-ability they offer is easier/faster/more variable than a gear diff ever could be.I had one in a Losi XX that never gave me a moment's trouble. But in a little 1:18 vehicle which may never see a track, it needs gear diffs like the Helion Animus. I've had two Pro-Pulses to burn up diffs, and this truck I'm afraid might not be any different.

In short, keep an eye on those diffs. Keep them tight but not too tight. Some better outdrives might help too.

If the manual doesn't show you how, you simply pop off a camber link on the side that has the allen head screw, and hold the other side by the wheel. Tighten it up and test.
Driver86's Avatar
"Retired racer. Old guy."
Driver86 - 12.02.11, 10:07 am Post #9: | Reply With Quote
stw9495 said
I hate to be blunt in expressing my opinion, but ball differentials SUCK for any kind of running other than racing. They're finicky, they slip, and they'll burn out on you if you don't watch them. Granted, they're amazing for racing, the adjust-ability they offer is easier/faster/more variable than a gear diff ever could be.I had one in a Losi XX that never gave me a moment's trouble. But in a little 1:18 vehicle which may never see a track, it needs gear diffs like the Helion Animus. I've had two Pro-Pulses to burn up diffs, and this truck I'm afraid might not be any different.

In short, keep an eye on those diffs. Keep them tight but not too tight. Some better outdrives might help too.

If the manual doesn't show you how, you simply pop off a camber link on the side that has the allen head screw, and hold the other side by the wheel. Tighten it up and test.
I have to completely disagree and refure your statement.

Two cases in point are the Associated RC18 that a friend of mine had, he chewed through diffs like you wouldn't believe and I didn't even though we were both running a nearly identical brushless setup. The difference was his was an older one without the ball diffs, mine was a Factory Team with ball diffs. He upgraded to ball diffs, problem solved.

Then my Vendetta SC. I know three other guys with Vendetta Buggies and Stadium Trucks. They did OK with the stock VR3 but as soon as a brushless system was introduced, the diffs melted like butter on mashed potatoes. We ALL upgraded to ball diffs and have had no diff issues since.

The stock plastic diffs are often just too weak to handle anything other than the brushed motors that most cars come with. Heck, even the RC18s now come with ball diffs whether FT or not, brushless or not.

For the record, the diffs on the Animus suck and will melt like a popscicle in July with brushless power.
(Last edited by Driver86 : 12.02.11 at 10:09 am)
I officially have too many vehicles to fit in this sig.
Brands I own: Associated, Duratrax, Exceed, Losi, RedCat, Silverlit, Syma, Tamiya, Tomy, Traxxas, Turnigy, Xmods and several generics
"Experienced user"
stw9495 - 12.02.11, 12:52 pm Post #10: | Reply With Quote
Driver86 said
I have to completely disagree and refure your statement.

Two cases in point are the Associated RC18 that a friend of mine had, he chewed through diffs like you wouldn't believe and I didn't even though we were both running a nearly identical brushless setup. The difference was his was an older one without the ball diffs, mine was a Factory Team with ball diffs. He upgraded to ball diffs, problem solved.

Then my Vendetta SC. I know three other guys with Vendetta Buggies and Stadium Trucks. They did OK with the stock VR3 but as soon as a brushless system was introduced, the diffs melted like butter on mashed potatoes. We ALL upgraded to ball diffs and have had no diff issues since.

The stock plastic diffs are often just too weak to handle anything other than the brushed motors that most cars come with. Heck, even the RC18s now come with ball diffs whether FT or not, brushless or not.

For the record, the diffs on the Animus suck and will melt like a popscicle in July with brushless power.
Ahh, a challenger. Lol. Maybe on the RC18's, the outdrives are made of a better material, or maybe I'm just an oaf and can't keep them maintained. I've just had awful luck with them. When I got my XX (don't mean to threadjack) its diff was burnt up. I replaced the gear and it was all good, but that was in a 2wd vehicle with a slipper. I will agree that non metal gear diffs go bad...but what I've got in my Stampede and T-Maxx hold up to the abuse.

I don't know from experience with the HPI, but I do know that the ProPulse gave me trouble. And that's what this looks like, an RC18 clone. It's been snazzed up with a couple parts from HPI's bin, but it still...scares me.

In regards to the original poster, hope you get it all worked out. I still feel like metal outdrives and ring gears will make your life 20x easier, even if you never go BL. (Not like the stock motor is slow anyways)

Always happy to have a little debate.
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