Well, I would be using them, except a pin sheared right in half when I was simply disassembling the rear end! So I'm in need of a small pin... yet the only way I can replace it is by purchasing
http://miponline.com/store/mip10142.html
for $10... So i just resorted to keeping the 4wd shafts on until they bust :P ... then I'll buy the pins for the MIPs

dang bro, that stinks.

You could try a very small allen wrench, cut it as close to size as possible. Ive used em for a few different "quick fixes".

ha brilliant, i am definitely going to try that!
might be able to save me $10 with that man

I've used coat hangers...........Yes, shame on me.

THats a fine slash and well documented - very useful for us noobs - thanks

xslash insanity: haha that's too funny!

tachikoma1373: great, i'm glad you enjoyed it I have plenty more pictures with more detail as to how some components are installed if you are curious about anything

SO! After a good 3 week break.... Today was the first day I was able to run this beast. I tested the newly fabricated suspension, and my steering mod, as well as added a few battle scars on the new body.

Summary:
1) Suspension: My fabricated suspension mounts held up wonderfully, (crafted from electrical box mounting plate available at Home Depot). The overall feel... a different story.. The rebound was rather slow (20 wt oil in main cylinder, water filled off cylinder) with rather heavy progressive VG racing springs. I only had 4 roll overs at a good 40 mph through incredibly rough terrain (gopher holes, rocks, washed out ravines, tall grass, and weeds... big weeds). Launching it off jumps, the suspension was very strong and didn't allow it to bottom. A real test of the suspension capabilities from jumps will be tested in a few weeks at my local bashing area.

2) Front Skid Plate: The skid plate worked very well, not too stiff, not buckling, no dents, never caught on anything.

3) Flotek Body: Because I used epoxxy to hold the cage to the inner side window, the body deformed, causing the cage window to stay rigid, pulling the paint off the body. I figured this would happen but was too ignorant to think of a better way. Thus I have thought of a better way... never too late! haha, but using screws with washers and locknuts will hold the cage up perfectly.

4) Steering: My worst enemy... As many of you know I posted a thread a few weeks ago looking for assistance on my 4wd bell crank mod.
Found here- http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=153228
However, I've encountered a new issue... My steering to the right is perfect, absolutely maxed out, but my left is completely under steering... like ridiculously. There is no binding, and when lifted up, the wheel gets pretty close to the correct degree. Any ideas as to what may cause this and how to fix it? I was thinking maybe blitz ball studs would help, but i have no idea how those work... Pictures below.





Thanks!

If you switch to ball studs get extras i have broken 4 since i put them on

The bellcrank isn't centered. Because of the front end geometry, even a minor difference in toe link length will completely ruin the balance of your steering. Easiest way, remove both toe links and measure them. They need to be exactly the same length. Center the steering by adjusting the length of the servo link.

Also, try running it with the wheelbase shortened-- put the spacers on the back of the front bulkhead, to shift the a-arms toward the rear. You want the toe links as close to parallel with the camber link as possible.

hazardouschurch: i see, how exactly do they mount? I've never seen them in person and really just can't wrap my head around them.

Dr. Isotope: Thanks, I've had a little trouble with the toe links, so I'll get them dialed in. Moving the spacers backwards is a very interesting idea, that never even remotely crossed my mind so i'll give it a shot. Also when you say "shortening the wheel base" is that in regards to the spacers? or completely removing the jang wide mod?
Thanks again