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slashbash22's Avatar
"Experienced user"
slashbash22 - 11.30.12, 10:58 am Post #1: | Reply With Quote
This is a thread for all the people asking how they should upgrade their slash. It happens A LOT. Many people want a lot of different things for a lot of different conditions. If you could sticky this thread, that would be great, so I don't have to keep bumping it up for the Slash owners out there.

Thanks!


1. STRC Low Center Of Gravity Rustler Chassis Conversion- Features a lay down servo. Very rigid and well built. The stock high center of gravity is very annoying when it comes to cornering.

2. Pro Line Chassis Saver- If you keep the stock chassis, save yourself the trouble of snapping it in half and buy this. Prevents chassis snappage.

3. LiPo Battery- If you have the brushed version, you can run a maximum of 2s or 2 cells. I recommend the Gens Ace, Turnigy Nano Tech, or a G-Force pack.

4. Aluminum Castor Blocks- Old ones will break very easily and bend the Kingpins.

5.Aluminum Bulkhead- STRC makes a very solid aluminum bulkhead out of machined aluminum

6. RPM Rear Axle Carriers- RPM is a very good brand and these will last forever.

7. RPM Arms Front and Rear- A Arms tend to break easy in cartwheels and RPM is a good replacement

8. Tires- Pro Line Trenchers are good for all terrain, Pro Line Gladiators work well on grass and dirt, or Pro Line Badlands are good for loose dirt. These are mainly bashing tires. For on road bashing, Pro Line Street fighters are a good option as well. If you race, see what the fast guys run, and run that.

9. Brushless system- I can't recommend the VXL system. Even though it is water proof, it will go up in smoke easily and overheats fairly quick. The Waterproof SC8 combo with the Tenshock motor is a great waterproof option.

10. Drive shafts- Tekno M6's are a good option for some serious power.

11. STRC Suspension Pins- These may bend easily or even sheer off inside of the transmission case or A Arm.

11. Losi Springs and Shock Oil - The stock Progressive springs are terrible. Losi has a wide variety of springs. For the Front, you want to use 2" spring and 2.5" for the rear. The bigger the rate, the stiffer the spring. For smooth conditions, you can use a thicker oil and vice versa.
(Last edited by slashbash22 : 12.01.12 at 6:48 am)
Traxxas Slash LCG SV3 4600kv 2s Race Truck

Traxxas Slash HCG XL-5 2s Basher W/ Trenchers

G'S RC Raceway Shippensburg PA
vxlslashbasher9's Avatar
"Experienced user"
vxlslashbasher9 - 11.30.12, 11:29 am Post #2: | Reply With Quote
thanks man
my running: slash vxl, solid axle rustler, rustler xl 1
no longer have: 1/16 slash 4x4, rustler xl 5, tmaxx 1.5, summit titan 775

jhtfarquhar's Avatar
"Zip-da-dee-doo-daa"
jhtfarquhar - 11.30.12, 3:33 pm Post #3: | Reply With Quote
I've made a thread like this, which I'll bump up right now....then I'll merge your thread into mine...... unless you merge mine into yours first
Saab93's Avatar
"Very experienced user"
Saab93 - 11.30.12, 4:14 pm Post #4: | Reply With Quote
My top 1 upgrade suggestion....

1. Don't buy a lcg chassis, sell your HCG slash and buy another sct if you need someting a bit racier. The 70 dollars you'll waste buying this kit to make your non-race oriented truck into a stretched rustler (also another non-race oriented truck) is such a waste.

Other suggestions would be to...

Pick up a set of aluminum caster blocks, this is a must upgrade part.

Rpm bearing carriers are also nice to have.

Other parts... upgrade them as you need. If a-arms break buy rpm ones etc.
Saab- Born from jets, killed by GM
slashbash22's Avatar
"Experienced user"
slashbash22 - 11.30.12, 4:31 pm Post #5: | Reply With Quote
jhtfarquhar said
I've made a thread like this, which I'll bump up right now....then I'll merge your thread into mine...... unless you merge mine into yours first
I don't know how to merge threads
Traxxas Slash LCG SV3 4600kv 2s Race Truck

Traxxas Slash HCG XL-5 2s Basher W/ Trenchers

G'S RC Raceway Shippensburg PA
DrJVogel's Avatar
"Obstacle Magnet"
DrJVogel - 11.30.12, 8:51 pm Post #6: | Reply With Quote
Nope. You're wrong. My number one upgrade for my Slash was to get a better driver.
RC addict and loving it
somewhere near Grass Valley, CA --- let's bash
"Vacationing user"
Traxxas711 - 11.30.12, 8:54 pm Post #7: | Reply With Quote
You missed the aluminum bulk head
draco321's Avatar
"Experienced user"
draco321 - 12.01.12, 4:06 am Post #8: | Reply With Quote
you also missed axles the stock ones will pretzel if you put any real power on them. if weight is an issue strc has #1953x or if weight isn't an issue then #mip10130
Morganlea361's Avatar
"Crazier than Gary Busey"
Morganlea361 - 12.01.12, 4:43 am Post #9: | Reply With Quote
After you buy a slash and all the necessary upgrades you may as well buy an Associated sc10. Not only will you spend less money but you will have a far superior machine.
yeah it's got a hemi
jhtfarquhar's Avatar
"Zip-da-dee-doo-daa"
jhtfarquhar - 12.01.12, 7:44 am Post #10: | Reply With Quote
you forgot most of this:
jhtfarquhar said
For this starter's guide, I am going to cover the basics of what one should buy (or use) when starting out with a Slash 2wd (XL-5 or VXL).
You should THINK before you buy ANYTHINg

ELECTRONICS

ESC (SPEED CONTROL)

The Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro is effectively the KING of powerful ESCs for the slash. It can push 8th scale motors on up to 6s
(sensored/sensorless)

Castle Creations Sidewinder-good for a budget, offers much more adjustability than the Hobbywing ESCs, but struggles to push a 4-pole motor on 3s
(sensorless)

Both the Maba Max Pro and Sidewinder can be found here: http://castlecreations.com/products/products_drive.html

Hobbywing-any of the ESCs are good stuff, 60amp (60a) is the minimum I would recconmend, almost all can be found Here: http://www.hobbypartz.com/hoescforca.html AND here:http://www.hobbyhot.com/HOBBYWING/
EZrun(sensorless) Xerun(sensored/sensorless)

Brushless Hobbies ESC, these are cheap and powerful, only 58 bucks for 120amp ESC, comes with USB programmer, and can EASILY handle 3s power
(sensored/sensorless)

Information on The Castle Mamba Max Pro vs. The Brushless hobbies 120 amp ESC




MOTOR

Hobbywing, Tacon, and leopard motors are cheap and good, but most are 2-pole, If you buy a motor from one of them, make sure that the can of the motor does not have deep ribs, make sure it looks smooth. Also make sure that the motor says either "3650 or 3660" or it might be a 1/16th scale system. http://www.hobbypartz.com/moandbrsy.html

Toro, powerful 4-pole motors that are said to rival Castle Creation's motors, albeit, at a much cheaper price.
http://www.ckhobby.com/shop/?control...ry&path=13_105

Tenshock, EXTREMELY powerful 4-pole motors that are almost always out of stock, but worth buying when they get back in stock. Pair with the MMP
http://www.ckhobby.com/shop/?control...ry&path=13_108

SERVO

EXI, Solar, Whatever you call it, pick a servo that has at least 125 oz-in. of torque, and has a transit time of under 14 sec/60 degrees.
Pick one that is digital and has metal gears, (NOT MICRO) and all's well
They can be found here: http://www.hobbypartz.com/servos.html
And here: http://www.valuehobby.com/radio-syst...1&gear_type=42

Savox is a good brand, but costs about $70, the sc-1256tg and sc-1257tg have been suggested.

Can be found @ amainhobbies.com, or the Savox website

I personally run a Solar D771, its specs are good, and speed is way more than enough for a basher like me, and good enough for a racer. (http://www.hobbypartz.com/33p-solarservo-d771.html)

RADIO SYSTEM

This is when cheapness comes into play.

The Flysky systems are very good for the money, the FS-GT3B is 3 channels and has many hacks one can do to make it perform better. It offers a lot of adjustability, and many neat features you can experiment with.

The FS-GT2 is rarely in stock, but is a budget item for the budget basher

Both can be found here: http://www.hobbypartz.com/rccarradios.html

Futaba radios are also reported to be top notch, but you pay for the power.
They have 3 tiers of 3-channel radios, and no 2 channel radios,
The 3-PRKA (screenless, and no mixing, but cheaper, dual rate)
The 3-PL (brake mixing, small screen, 4 wheel steer mixing, Dual rate)
The top of the line 3-PM-X (decent screen, dual rate, mixing options, ergonomics adjustment, 4ws etc.)
All Futaba Radios can be found here: http://www.futaba-rc.com/systems/surface.html

CHARGER

A Charger guide, but if you don't have time to read, the two below are good choices: http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=115188

Thunder AC6 (tried and true) http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html

OR

Thunder AC680 (more power, more expense) http://www.hobbypartz.com/73p-ac680-accharger.html

BATTERIES

Sky LiPos or Gens Ace are good, but min. spec one should buy is 40c 4000mah or 30c 5000mah.

http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=115264 is a good read when you have time, but I have sorted out some basic (powerful) battery packs

Gens Ace 2s 5000mah 40c, good for starting out, Perfect if you have the XL-5 (wires go straight from battery to connector (direct), wires go to bullet plugs that plug into battery (not direct)
http://www.hobbypartz.com/gensace2s40c.html

Gens Ace 3s, 5000mah 40c, (need battery expansion kit and CAN ONLY BE USED WITH 3S CAPABLE BRUSHLESS SYSTEM) good for switching up to when you have a BRUSHLESS system such as VXl, Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro, Castle Creations Sidewinder, etc.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/gensace3s40c.html

I will update this later with durability and race upgrades.

Mr. Slash has covered this for me!!




My input on this subject.

Transmission Cases

Fast Lane Machine (FLM) A top quality product (reportedly) according to many members of this forum, but it has to be to justify the price tag, a handy dandy $60.00. It has the "Dr. Isotope seal of approval", and has survived his diff exploding and sending shards of differential innards into the tranny, he just picked out the pieces, put a new diff in, and kept going. The FLM also comes with adjustable toe-in mounts, perfect for racers and bashers alike who want yet another thing to "dial in". Also, does not add considerable weight to the truck.
http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...LM20000&cat=17

VENOM (soon to be Atomik RC) Cheap option for those without much cash, their cases come anodized in many colors, but at the minute, only orange is available Since it uses a motor "plate", it does not add considerable weight. Only 37.49, but, the venom aluminum ally is suspect.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-Alum...ht_1227wt_1163

Hot Racing, The case I will be ordering, comes in just one color, black, and features cooling fins and a graphite case, and finally, an aluminum motor plate. This also comes with all the requisite spacers to install the stock bumper mount, but the graphite does not dissipate as much heat as it's competitors do, but makes up for that in lightness.
Details page:http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...TE12GX01;c=430
Where to buy:http://www.hobbyetc.com/item.cgi?part_id=75158

Golden Horizon, Heavy, clunky, and cheap, an aluminum stock tranny. VERY HEAVY, and some have experienced defects with them, (screws not fitting, etc.) http://www.ghhobby.com/proddetail.php?prod=2600

Integy, one of their cases appears just like the GH one, but another has some extra holes for lightening, but they are nothing to write home about
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...8#.T9fuHbVYvng
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...9#.T9fuILVYvng

Racer's Edge Machine (REM) Cool looking products, but it is like the GH one, but without the defects, but is very heavy, and costs even more than FLM
http://www.racersedgemachine.com/Slash.html

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