Ultimate RC Home RC Forum RC Videos RC Photos RC Projects & others
Affiliate links:
Not a Member Yet? You're Missing Out!
Sign up in minutes for a free URC Network account and you'll be able to post in over 100+ forum categories, search over a decade of archived topics, exchange private messages with other members, upload pictures to the RC photo galleries, and much more!

Already have an account?
Sign in below!
Sign in:
Reply
Thread Tools
URC Newsbot's Avatar
"011101010111
001001100011
"
URC Newsbot - 1.04.13, 1:20 am Post #1: | Reply With Quote

X Factory have released their new X-60CF stadium truck, an all carbon fiber Conversion Kit which transforms an AE T4.1 or T4 into a mid-motor X-60CF. A second Kit is also available to convert an existing X-60 to the new carbon fiber version. The new X-60CF has been seen testing at races all over the United States for three months now, and Team drivers love it. Both X-60CF Kits are complete with everything needed to convert the T4.1 or T4 to the new mid-motor truck or to convert the X-60 to carbon fiber. The conversion for the AE truck includes the great JConcepts designed and supplied body. The Kit to convert an X-60 is the lowest price Kit X-Factory has ever sold because so many parts are carried over; most drivers will do this conversion in less than two hours. The T4.1 conversion usually takes a bit over two hours.
Source: X-Factory [xfactoryrc.com]


News brought to you by...
01000010 01101001 01110100 01100101 00100000 01101101 01111001 00100000 01110011 01101000 01101001 01101110 01111001 00100000 01101101 01100101 01110100 01100001 01101100 00101110 00101110 00101110 00100000 01100001 01101110 01110100 01100101 01101110 01101110 01100001
"Experienced user"
pinoyboy22 - 1.04.13, 10:44 am Post #2: | Reply With Quote
Nice
HPI Baja 5B SS/HPI WR8 Ken Block Rally/HPI Sprint 2 Flux/Kyosho Sandmaster/Tamiya TXT-1/Ofna DM1 Spec E/Caster Racing F8T truggy/Losi 8ight TE 2.0/Radiopost TS-401/Futaba 3PKS Fasst
Fiero_Man_121's Avatar
"most useless user"
Fiero_Man_121 - 1.04.13, 11:05 am Post #3: | Reply With Quote
that



is



hawt
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	shut-up-and-take-my-money.jpg
Views:	26
Size:	106.9 KB
ID:	41100  
Florida D.O. Racer | Vintage traxxas collector
Brands i choose to support [amongst others]:
SPC Lipo batteries McAllister Racing Bodies Kipps hobbies
BillDeLong's Avatar
"Did I make the A Main?"
BillDeLong - 1.05.13, 5:09 am Post #4: | Reply With Quote
too bad it's useless on 90% of the tracks in my area

what's up with the shorty pack? that's another ding too

Did they provide a redesigned 4:3 gearbox too?
Club Racer: SCT + eBuggy + GT8e + GT18e + USGT + VTA + M12
Basher:
Monster Trucks + Crawlers + Drifters + Motorcycles

Evil genius jr.'s Avatar
"Experienced user"
Evil genius jr. - 1.05.13, 5:36 am Post #5: | Reply With Quote
BillDeLong said
too bad it's useless on 90% of the tracks in my area
Common misconception. A well tuned mid-motor car will destroy a rear motor car on any track. However you must approach setup completely differently than a rear motor car. Different tires, springs, oil, etc..
Brushlesshobbies.com
DESC410
BillDeLong's Avatar
"Did I make the A Main?"
BillDeLong - 1.05.13, 5:45 am Post #6: | Reply With Quote
Evil genius jr. said
Common misconception. A well tuned mid-motor car will destroy a rear motor car on any track. However you must approach setup completely differently than a rear motor car. Different tires, springs, oil, etc..
Yeah, also strap a brick load of weight to get rear traction, if the mid-motor worked better on "ANY TRACK", then all manufactures would switch to this design, simply put, it's a gimmick for bashers to get tricked into thinking they have a better design when it's only good for high traction surfaces period. Plus you need to add an additional gear in the gearbox to get the motor rotation in the same direction as the rear mount.

For those insisting on going with a mid motor design, there are some good tips from the Losi Team drivers here:
http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2012/...truck-kit.html


(watch this on YouTube for more options)



I'm sure Frank will be happy to answer any specific questions as well here:
http://forum.losi.com/showthread.php?t=11143
Club Racer: SCT + eBuggy + GT8e + GT18e + USGT + VTA + M12
Basher:
Monster Trucks + Crawlers + Drifters + Motorcycles

Evil genius jr.'s Avatar
"Experienced user"
Evil genius jr. - 1.05.13, 5:52 am Post #7: | Reply With Quote
BillDeLong said
Yeah, also strap a brick load of weight to get rear traction, if the mid-motor worked better on "ANY TRACK", then all manufactures would switch to this design, simply put, it's a gimmick for bashers to get tricked into thinking they have a better design when it's only good for high traction surfaces period. Plus you need to add an additional gear in the gearbox to get the motor rotation in the same direction as the rear mount.

For those insisting on going with a mid motor design, there are some good tips from the Losi Team drivers here:
http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2012/...truck-kit.html


(watch this on YouTube for more options)



I'm sure Frank will be happy to answer any specific questions as well here:
http://forum.losi.com/showthread.php?t=11143
It's not necessary to add weight for mid motor, just move it around.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...2t-thread.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-tlr-22-a.html

Ideally a mid motor car will have the same F/R weight bias as a rear motor but all the weight within the wheelbase. Unfortunately cars such as the 22 or DEX210 are not able to achieve this without modifications as they are also designed to be rear motor. I'm not saying it's easy or even possible without mods but with time and some hackery a mid motor will be better.
Brushlesshobbies.com
DESC410
indy34096's Avatar
"Shake n' Bake"
indy34096 - 1.05.13, 12:30 pm Post #8: | Reply With Quote
Would definitely work great at the track I go to, but many won't spend the money.
Associated B4.1 FT, Associated RC10 Classic, ProBoat Impulse 26
He passed me, so I rammed him. -- Rocket Rex Staten
MOPAR OR NO CAR!!!
Larry's Performance R/C's Frequent
frozencone's Avatar
"Experienced user"
frozencone - 1.06.13, 5:45 am Post #9: | Reply With Quote
My mid motor pr proken s1 is hopeless on my local track.
There's not enough space to list all my cars

.....................................
.....................................
.....................................
"Experienced user"
Fat Gasser - 1.06.13, 10:43 pm Post #10: | Reply With Quote
Evil genius jr. said
It's not necessary to add weight for mid motor, just move it around.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...2t-thread.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-tlr-22-a.html

Ideally a mid motor car will have the same F/R weight bias as a rear motor but all the weight within the wheelbase. Unfortunately cars such as the 22 or DEX210 are not able to achieve this without modifications as they are also designed to be rear motor. I'm not saying it's easy or even possible without mods but with time and some hackery a mid motor will be better.
You're thinking real cars, yes, in a real car, MR setup is most ideal compared to a RR "Porsche 911" setup. But that doesn't translate into the RC world as easily.

Even the pros here in the states don't really use the mid motor setup. Its just too difficult to drive to reap the benefits. Where it pays off is in europe for those indoor carpet/astroturf guys where traction is extremely high.
Reply
Thread Tools


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 8:40 am.


Featuring: Ultimate Tamiya, Traxxas Slash forum, Slash 4x4 forum, Ultimate RC forums

Original content & design copyright ©2000 - 2013, Bamidele O. Shangobunmi & the Ultimate RC Network. Privacy policy
Manufacturer/vendor images, names, & trademarks are copyrights of their lawful owners & used with permission and/or within Fair Use guidelines.

Lego fan? Check out JANG's LEGO blog and LEGO videos on YouTube