Just watched a vid on youtube. Full throttle starts get you nothing but roost and fishtails.

Hunting for traction would be putting it lightly.

Thanks for the link, that's pretty cool, after looking at the exploded parts diagram, it appears to be using the same transmission, not a 4 gear for the mid motor

I did see that the LCG aluminum chassis is only $27:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDAYN&P=7

Seems like a far better deal than the chassis kits I've seen from other vendors

i'm getting one, taking the 3.3 out of it and putting that in my jato, then putting my jato's 2.5 in the slash. There, the truck is instantly 10x more manageable.

Honestly, I've never had a problem with my Evader or Stampede since I started using the correct phillips head to to the job. Never again have I stripped a screw head. People run into problems because they use a phillips head screw driver that is too big or too small, strip the head, and then throw a tantrum that phillips head screws are the worst ever, which I understand. I used to do it all the time a few years back. Only time I have problems with phillips head screws is when I'm using a drill gun to put in heavy duty lag screws into the side of a house and need ultra force and grip to get it to go in. RC's don't have close to that kind of force needed ever.

so is the electric slash's tranny and front end a direct drop in on a the nitro's chassis? that is, minus coming up with some method of holding the battery in (which i am thinking heavy duty velcro and straps)

I prefer <insert any screw head type> over hex. Hexes just strip WAY too easy.

For $27, I'd be willing to give it a try when they come back in stock. I am ready to convert my 2WD Pede into a Stadium Truck, that class has recently been revived locally and I think it would be fun to give some of the Losi 22T's a little competition from Traxxas, ha!

Not wrong there Bill. get the chassis and rear end/gearbox components and try it if they ever get any stock over here in the UK. I think I should do the custom chassis for my Clash 1 first though

so are you saying that phillips head hardware is superior to hex head? if you are, then we have issues, if you aren't then your point is moot.

justpoet: Battery, I mean fuel tank, box looks to be a little over 45mm wide. There is one attachment point that passes a bolt through a motor mount, but you can easily make up for that with a couple nuts or a little standoff.


I think I've irreparably stripped about as many Phillips heads as hex heads, which is a pretty small number. Phillips definitely seem easier to strip though since they don't lock the bit in. I do have a full range of Phillips bits, too, and (usually) use the right one for the job. Another nice thing about hexes is that you can often cheat out-of-the-way screws with ball end bits!