Well, I have had these items for awhile, but held off the review to get more testing done. The first time running with these items, I broke a knuckle and had to wait to get a new one. So I fixed it and got a bit more testing done. On to the reviews...


Duratrax Aluminum Heatsink
------------------------------------

The finish on the heatsink is nice, and the blue color matches up with all their other parts. Its also very light and covers the stock motor quite well. If you have other 380-size motors, the heatsink will fit perfectly (like the Feigao 380 BLs for example).

Top view
Bottom view
Installed


Duratrax Split Block Tires
-------------------------------

These tires are definetly a must have for anyone racing their MiniQuake on a dirt track. They hook up on the track VERY well. The tire compound seems softer than the stockers, but that might be because of the stock tread having thick grooves. When I run at the track, I use these tires. I don't even bother bringing the stockers or the Trinitys anymore. Those ones I'll leave for bashing outside.

Installed - Front angle
Installed - Top angle


Duratrax Carbon Fiber Battery Strap
---------------------------------------------

Not a whole lot to test with this one. However, it does look better than the stock setup and adds some bling-bling to your MiniQuake. The battery strap is nicely cut and looks good. The aluminum posts and antenna mount look good as well, and again, the blue color matches with the many other DTX blue hop-ups. All in all, it adds a nice touch to the MiniQuake.

Installed
Antenna mount


Duratrax 13T Pinion
-------------------------

I was amazed to find that it comes in the same blue color as the other hop-up parts. Very cool in my opinion. The pinion also comes with a set screw, which is good to have incase you get a hotter motor with a 2.3mm shaft (like the Stegga). The lower tooth count definetely gives more torque to the MiniQuake. If you want more torque for the stock or Stegga, its definetely a good choice.

13T Pinion


Duratrax Aluminum Body Posts
---------------------------------------

The aluminum body posts are a nice addition to the MiniQuake. I have yet to break a stock body post, but if you have, you definetely want these. The finish and color is great. I was a little disappointed to see that they use a body clip to hold the body up, rather than a built-in ledge like the stocks have. But they still do the job. After installing the, I found the body was a bit harder to put on. It seems the stock body posts were slightly bent in. I don't know if it was just mine or all MiniQuakes, but its noticable once you switch to the aluminum ones. It doesn't really bother me, but I wanted to make sure that was noted.

Installed


Duratrax Aluminum Shocks
---------------------------------

These I spent some time on, since the Losi ones for the Mini-T seriously disappointed me (both at release and months later after bugs were supposedly fixed). First off, they look awesome. Full blue aluminum shocks give the MiniQuake a nice look (definite bling-bling for anyone that likes to hook up their R/Cs). And although the performance difference isn't very noticable compared to the stock shocks, the fact of being aluminum will be better in the long run. Being all aluminum, you are less likely to have the shock caps pop off during a hard landing or during heavy shock compression. Plus the aluminum body is stronger and will hold up to more abuse. I haven't heard of anyone popping the stock caps, but the aluminum shocks do lessen that chance.

The first run of aluminum shocks did include crappy directions. I spoke with Duratrax and it was already being fixed. They weren't hard to read, but didn't give much detail either. Here's a picture of the first run directions:

First Run Aluminum Shocks Directions

That aside, lets get to the pictures of the shocks, which also includes the assembly process:

All parts from the package
Bladders and shock ends
Assembly parts for the shock body
Shock shaft, body, and cap

Shock body assembly
Shock shaft assembly
Shock body and shaft assembly pt1
Almost done
Grabbing shaft with pliers to screw on shock end (Note I used a piece plastic between the pliers and the shaft. Do this to protect the shaft's finish from scratching. You can use other materials as well. Also, grab the shaft using the flat area on the pliers. Never use the grooved area)
Shock end installed
Complete shocks

For my shocks, I used 20 weight oil. They are pretty smooth with the 20 weight. If you need a stiffer compression, I would recommend something heavier, like 30 or 40 weight. Its all personal preference and based on the track conditions, but the 20 worked out quite well for me. I might try 30 or 35 later on. Overall, I like the shocks.




I know some of you are hoping for another CVD review. However, I still have to get my Trex motor installed. I would do it before the Trex is in, but I want to test them with a strong motor. We all know they will hold up to a stock motor. The question is whether they can hold up to a beast like the Trex. Hopefully I can get it done this weekend.

Hey, good review, just wanted to add something that you mentioned about the body posts.. I recently got them as well, and instead of putting the clips to hold the body up, I took a piece of clear nitrous fuel line, and cut it in 1/4" pieces and used that.. Fits awesome, and looks great too..

I also just got the shock towers in blue, servo center steering set in blue, carbon fiber battery holder, and carbon fiber upper deck (awesome upgrade) which stiffens up the truck tremendously...

These are just in addition to my mamba 8000kv motor, jr xs3 27mhz synthesized fm radio, with upgrader receiver (RS310) awesome for 1/18th scale micros, aluminum knuckles, aluminum cvd's, and shocks.. I will post a few pictures and a video in a few days......

But thanks again for the review.. Love it when people have good review..

By the way, check out www.beatyourtruck.com and click on Projects tab..
They have a complete review on the mini quake with mods.. You will like reading it... Matt